So what are people running other than ATF?
So what are people running other than ATF?
motorcycle oil, 10w40.
yeah every za50 needs this done no matter what. I wouldn't ride a ZA for a minute without replacing pucks.
Atf or motor oil. Mopagen's ss tomos clutch springs can also be shortened to about 5” and put into stock za clutches if you want yours to engage later...
1.Jake P: wow, i had no idea this was so important. i just got my '79 Za50 with 3500 miles, no idea when it ran last, so i will def. replace the pucks now. Thanks for posting these pics! Seeing is believing.
2.ALSO: What should i use if not ATF gear oil? I just bought some ATF, as i used it in my e50, so if not ATF then whats best in ZA? (sorry if this is a dumb question-i'm new to this, as this is my first za, obviously).
3. Chris Collins: What is the improper step in replacing the clutch in the Wiki manual? It seems if its a Wiki, you could/should just edit it vs. just dropping a reference like this in the middle of a forum thread. (maybe its fixed/edited by now?) People like me (who are learngin) depend on accuracy in these manuals, and whoa-pics along with= even better.
thanks for all the help guys/gals
No problem Nick.
ATF type F is fine. Letting a za sit without atf or something in there is bad.
Many guys experiment with different motor oils (0w-20, 90w, sae30, etc.) to change the clutch engagement point. Some heat fade while others don't. I've had good luck with type F.
0w20 synthetic motor oil much much better then type f tranny fluid
Dirt bike/motorcycle trannys use motor oil. They didn't have synthetic oil when puch mopeds were made if they did they would call for it
This thread = exactly what I logged on to find out about. Hells yeah! (edited)
You can also order pucks directly from Atomic if Treats is out of stock.
...and what about this misinformation in the wiki?
This is all that was left in my 78 with 3800 miles on it.
A little side note on flipping 2nd gear clutch. If you have the 16/70 tooth first gear, flip 2nd. An excellent improvement. But if you have the 13/77 tooth first gear and running a stock cylinder, don't flip 2nd gear clutch. Even with just a slight grade, i wasn't able to get enough speed out of 1st gear for 2nd to engage. (edited)
I flipped several 1hp 13 tooth bell restricted gear and had no problem with second gear engaging with a 2 hp top end though that got kits on them now.
Sometimes a normal 2hp 16 tooth bell does that .
Za50s are funny no two act the same
What does "flipping second gear" do?
Stays in first gear longer/higher up shifts
Downshifts like a passing gear in a car
Cool. I don't have any ZAs or ever rode a bike with one.
My 86 1.5hp Cobra ZA came factory with the 13/77T first gear, but the bottom end was trashed so i never got to run it. I bought a 2hp parts maxi with a ZA on it and I flipped 2nd and put the 13/77 first gears in it. First gear was quicker off the line but engine rpm maxed out around 13mph, which is about where the flipped second starts to engage, with stock 18/40 sprockets anyways.
I wouldn't consider the 13/77T first gear a "restricted gear" setup, since second gear ratios are all the same. It's just a lower 1st gear setup to get it off the line quicker and up the steepest hills when compared to the 16/70T first gears. Either way, i still think it would fall way short of the powerband of most pipes once it would shift to second.
Ken, Which do you feel works better with your polini/estoril, 13T or 16T?
i replaced pucks, and flipped clutches and reshimmed, but i also ran ATF. is that really bad? I'd always assumed that was the standard until i read thru this.
I've ran/run 1 hp with both restricted gears.
1hp first gear and then 2hp second gears.
and both 2hp gears all with polini/Gila kits and derestricted and or side bleed estroil pipes .
If you run high enough gears 1hp first gear 13 tooth and 2hp second gear will catch the pipe in the band if a estroil type.
For me and my za50 bikes I like hi geared sprocket combos and low rpm pipes for long service life
Can you send me a link to this?
> Kalamu Kieta Wrote:
> Can you send me a link to this?
Exactly what would you like a link to ?
This is a 7 year old thread . It would be best to start a new thread with reference to this thread , with specific questions .
damn I kinda wanna fuck with a za50 again
Same. I still need to finish getting one rebuilt.
> Deadped Ryan Wrote:
> I don't know why people don't replace these... You spend around $150 on
> an engine and won't spend $15 on something everybody tells you to.
> You can't got on how they "look". Replace them - replace them - replace
Probably because they don't know how? I was always told it's very difficult to reassemble these to factory spec
Everyone I know just sent them off or had Graham do it
They are too easy not to replace yourself. The shimming will not change if all you are doing is replacing the pucks and/or flipping the second gear. Sure my first one was a little daunting before I started. Then once I got in there I saw it was super easy.
^^ good to know
But it's never clear if that shimming is black magic or not
> Ѭ ɞŦЯʚOluv Ѫѫ Wrote:
> ^^ good to know
> But it's never clear if that shimming is black magic or not
The unknown is always black magic . ;)
The only thing you have to make sure of is the gasket. If you tear the one that was on it, you have to replace it with one that was the same thickness. Or else you shimming could be off. Honestly the .5mm or less should not make enough of a difference to require different shims.
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