Stop that Magnum!

I can't get my magnum to stop worth a crap. Puch II 5 star mag wheels, Leleu brake hubs. What (specifically) brake shoes make you stop the best with Puch 5 stars? I've tried a few and they all seem mushy and never really GRAB! My Maxi with wire wheels will stop on a dime. All new heavy cables and levers. Also, the rear hub arm travels a long way before starting to grab. I'm running 80mm x 18MM shoes now.

Re: Stop that Magnum!

I assume you have, but try replacing your cable. If it stretches you’ll lose a lot of braking power.

Are you using aftermarket levers?

Re: Stop that Magnum!

New cables and Domino levers. It's the shoes or drums.

Re: Stop that Magnum!

^^^yeayea the key is to replace both the brake shoes and cables ( the best squeeze feeling ever).

Your brake drums could be worn out. Was there rust pitting on them? if so you gotta clean them out with brake cleaner after doing a few stops & look at the pads too!

The new cables suck (to long) and they don’t use the full life of your brake shoes.

Where does the two sandwich nuts sit on the threaded part of the cables? Pictures!

Re: Stop that Magnum!

I'm by far not a Puch man at all but I thought the Puch spoke wheels use 80x18 and the mags use 90x18? Am I wrong?

Re: Stop that Magnum!

> Stephen Simmons Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I'm by far not a Puch man at all but I thought the Puch spoke wheels use

> 80x18 and the mags use 90x18? Am I wrong?

https://www.treatland.tv/eagle-80mm-brakes-p/eagle-80mm-brakes.htm

Re: Stop that Magnum!

> Stephen Simmons Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I'm by far not a Puch man at all but I thought the Puch spoke wheels use

> 80x18 and the mags use 90x18? Am I wrong?

You are semi-correct. There are grimeca 5 stars with 80 and 90mm brakes.

About a cm of play on the brake pads should be something you notice on installing them though.

Re: Stop that Magnum!

My brother in-laws was the same. I took the whole braking system apart and lubed all the cables and cleaned everything then lubed it then sanded the pads and drums with a 80 grit sanding block. it stops great now.

Re: Stop that Magnum!

I never had luck getting my 5 stars brakes working enough to be confident I wasn’t gonna die.

I think slotted/grooved Pads are the way to go if you can get em in the Right size with the heavy duty brake cables, then lube that puppy up. And yeah, my drums were pretty worn and pitted on mine, too.

Oh, and get a spring on the end of the cable at the actuator to get that great snap back when you let off to avoid brake drag.

Re: Stop that Magnum!

Bad Cadillac™ /

> Rocco Taco Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Stephen Simmons Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > I'm by far not a Puch man at all but I thought the Puch spoke wheels

> use

>

> > 80x18 and the mags use 90x18? Am I wrong?

>

> https://www.treatland.tv/eagle-80mm-brakes-p/eagle-80mm-brakes.htm

Will these pads fit Puch snowflake rims too?

My Magnum does not stop great either.

Re: Stop that Magnum!

Overpriced Parts /

You got to blueprint puch brakes with existing shoes, you deglaze the shoes by hand sanding them perfect 200-400 grit (outside wearing a respirator)

But you take down/sand 1/4-1/2 inch of each end of shoe A bit more than the rest of the shoe so it doesn’t contact the drum (at least not initially), you could leave them on the brake plate if you’re good, Break the glaze on the drum but don’t over rough it,

Clean everything with brake parts cleaner.

Then you reinstall brake plate/brakes, the axles will be bent one way or the other even if you straighten them initially, you want no dragging so orient the axle to the brake plate on new used wheels so you could install it that way initially,

The system not a free-floating system you need to break in shoes to drum hard by stopping hard or even dragging a brakes for a while, releasing dragging the brake for a while etc and after a few runs they should start to break in and start to stop better and better, but it could take several rides,

Here is where most people make the mistake especially when buying used wheels or taking off wheel on a bike initially and brakes worked good originally on the bike new,

You have to mark the axle orientation before you first remove the wheel you have to put the back wheel back on the same way because it will not contact the shoe the way it originally was since it’s not a free-floating system

so I always put a scratch mark at the end of the axle in market with the awl and sharpie up or down arrow for a remove the wheel or adjust the wheel in anyway shape or form that way it goes on the same way it was broken into whether it be from the factory or after you just did what I said to do above,

Many of my bikes will skid the back wheel at low speeds, but not at 55-60mph, at those higher speeds not the greatest but Way more acceptable,

I use Thick NOS puch brake cables most times and lube through the cap frequently too

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