"maaaay shorten it up some, but maybe not?"
Mo' books on mopeds
"maaaay shorten it up some, but maybe not?"
Mo' books on mopeds
Got a care package coming your way, shipping out tomorrow!
> Mike Boyd Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Got a care package coming your way, shipping out tomorrow!
yessssss! <3
This is just so damn cool.
> David Herrera Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> This is just so damn cool.
u r ;)
Pic of the tall bike?
i can probably get tall bike pictures later if i remember
> Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
>I hope that you have enough of a wrap around the freewheel so that
> the chain doesn't jump the teeth under hard braking
brandon called it! I did some up and down the street push bike style brake tests and under hard braking, it'll skip a tooth once in a while. if I slam the brake super hard, it'll do it almost every time.
I knew it was a possibility, I was just being super hopeful that it wouldn't. I used a pre-existing hole in the frame for the spring mount and was just hoping it would conveniently work out.
not a big deal, I can make a bracket and get better chain wrap and/or spring tension.
otherwise tho IT WORKS REALLY WELL!
Maybe spring the chain end to the chain coming from the brake arm , with a bit of tension ?
That would provide as much a wrap as possible .
> P D Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Maybe spring the chain end to the chain coming from the brake arm , with
> a bit of tension ?
>
> That would provide as much a wrap as possible .
this was my original idea, but i didn't like the idea of constant pull on the brake arm that the end of the chain being sprung to it would cause, if that makes any sense.
current plan is to just build a little bracket that puts the spring lower and further back some, and possibly a bit stiffer spring, or some more tension on this spring.
i'm back in oregon for a week or so to gather some of my stuff/see family, but i'll get back on this once i'm back in fe
> the worst terry Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > P D Wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Maybe spring the chain end to the chain coming from the brake arm ,
> with
>
> > a bit of tension ?
>
> >
>
> > That would provide as much a wrap as possible .
>
> this was my original idea, but i didn't like the idea of constant pull
> on the brake arm that the end of the chain being sprung to it would
> cause, if that makes any sense.
>
> current plan is to just build a little bracket that puts the spring
> lower and further back some, and possibly a bit stiffer spring, or some
> more tension on this spring.
>
> i'm back in oregon for a week or so to gather some of my stuff/see
> family, but i'll get back on this once i'm back in fe
Maybe a bit more clear :
"spring the chain end all the way around the sprocket to the chain coming from the brake arm , with a bit of tension"
Maybe not .
nah, i gotcha. kinda like this -
at least i think i gotcha. the spring pulling on the chain going back to the arm is gonna be pulling a bit on the arm and i don't wanna deal with all that, moving the spring anchor spot lower should do it.
it's all experiments and trying things out, but i feel like a bracket either bolted or welded to the frame will geter done.
> the worst terry Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> nah, i gotcha. kinda like this -
>
> at least i think i gotcha. the spring pulling on the chain going back to
> the arm is gonna be pulling a bit on the arm and i don't wanna deal with
> all that, moving the spring anchor spot lower should do it.
>
> it's all experiments and trying things out, but i feel like a bracket
> either bolted or welded to the frame will geter done.
Yup . You illustrated what I meant .
I don't think there would be enough tension to effect the brake arm adversely .
Sure , there'll be some , but , probably not enough to make the brakes drag .
Agreed ... experiment . ;)
Y not a pushrod?
I wonder if you used a hose clamp around the sprocket and chain, or drill a hole in the sprocket and push the last link of the chain pin through the sprocket.
nah, the end of the chain needs to be secured to something via a spring to keep the end from going too slack when the brake is in use.
a bracket lowering the end of the chain should do nicely.
so I'm back in oregon for thanksgiving and to collect some of my stuff (tools, moped shit, my jeep, my cat) before heading back to santa fe. digging through my moped shit I found a solid, stock za50 bottom end.
I'm gonna move forward with the e50 build for this bike for now, but I'mma rebuild this za and it's probably gonna end up on this bike eventually!
hi, remember this dumb thing?
im back in the southwest and have started cracking on purple pain again. goatheads rally is coming up and I gotta do my prospect ride on my own bike before then, so it's go time
basically finalized the back pedal brake thing and it doesn't skip teeth any more. also discovered a little quirk that never occurred to me, though it properly should have. you can't really toll this bike backwards!
rolling a puch or any moped or bicycle with a freewheel backwards causes the cranks to back pedal due to how the freewheel functions, which applies the brake on this bike. not a big deal, i'll get used to it. totally worth it for the sick skids!
I'm waiting on a treats order, but once parts show up I can build the motor and start wrapping things up.
I need to figure out what pipe to use. In all my years, I've never gila'd an e50, so idk what it's gonna want. I'm open to suggestions!
pics are what really matters
Estoril is pretty dope on a gila, really strong in the low-mids and pretty good up top too. The Estoril does quit at about 10.5k though. If you’re trying to hit some insane rpms the simo is probably the best but you will probably roast it. A homeot 8p is the best compromise that is available for puchs decent lows and great midrange and still revs out.
I was considering an estoril, they pretty cheap and I had one on my 80cc sachs forever ago and loved it. This kit is kinda beat so I'm not doing any porting or anything to start with.
I also need to figure out where to start my jetting. I was told by someone way smarter than me that two 14 bings will equal around ~20mm total, but like.. they're bings haha. No idea where to start at.
I mocked the engine up and it's gonna be a pretty silly looking thing when it's done
(edited)
That tiny hand plug boot.
Idk, most polini bing bikes I’ve built are in the 80s-90s? I’ve never had a gila puch before, but I’m guessing a gila is less thirsty than a polini. I bet you’re safe to start in that range. Get out your micro drills!! (edited)
the gila on my za50 uses a lot of gas with the 21 phbg. bigger piston and ports than a polini, it's gotta have at least just as bad gas milage
luckily, all of my bing jets are in the 80s and 90s, and I've got lots of doubles. perks of running a bunch of shops over the years, haha
This bike is awesome. I wonder if you have to tune them to open at the same or have them stagger open like one is the idle circuit and other is main.... idk dual carbs have always fascinated me. Seems like a lot of variables. Either way I think she will be thirsty. I would probably slap a Estoril or treats pipe on it. Unless you can get a 8P for cheep. Hell even a circuit pipe would be rad if you wanted to keep the RPMs down but take off like a rocket.
Keep the pics coming . Pretty sweet ride
Can’t wait to see this in person a second time! (Hopefully ready time skid!!!)
Might try and take a trip down before the rally!
hell yeah Tyler! maybe you'll get to ride it next time you're here
I thought about a circuit, they are my favorite after all, but I'm thinking an estoril is the way to go. I wanna cut it up and weld it into a fun new shape, circuit pipes aren't the best for it.
I do love them tho
I'd say open together and tune them alike. Its the same as one with better intake velocity? Probably offset by the added resistance of two barrels and intakes... We all know its just because it looks cool and nothing else. Tuning should be straightforward tho. I would start by deciding what range you would normally jet a gila at, find the radius of the hole in the jet you would start with if you were to run one carb and then find the area. Divide that in half and work backwards from there to find the equivalent area of two holes. This isn't really spot on because bing and dellorto jets are indexed by the amount of fuel they flow and not incremental measurements.
Use these charts to find your hole size. (I giggled too)
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