Re: How to wire your brake light for LEDs

Dan (high idle) Conway /

Man this is a ridiculously petty argument... Yes you can hot glue/silicon components in a taillight.........

It’s been running fine for weeks now, no blinking no burnouts just nice lighting.....

The full wave rectifier made a slight difference and I

only did it cuz I have the extra diodes.

Go do something else guys, if you like it try it, I found it successful.

Know when to stop lol

Re: How to wire your brake light for LEDs

Yea it does get old fast.

Re: How to wire your brake light for LEDs

Hey so quick Q on this stuff. Why can't I just shove a 6 V AC LED in and call it a day? Why all the conversions and rectifications?

Re: How to wire your brake light for LEDs

Dan (high idle) Conway /

Well there are several reasons,

first off the voltage isn't regulated, the higher the engine revs the more electricity it puts out. Also its an LED standing for light emmitting diode, diode means one way (DC) and a puch e50 magneto puts out AC. On a kitted 50mph bike putting out way more spins than stock the bulbs will be blown within half a mile of riding.

Ive been running this setup for months. The lights work great and look awesome. The only problem ive had was the inner bulb holder/ reflector kept cracking on me from high speed vibration, lotsa following up with super glue.(edited)

Re: How to wire your brake light for LEDs

> Dan (high idle) Conway Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Hey gang,

>

> So here’s how it goes

>

> Positive from taillight> Diode > Capacitor Positive> Bulb. Then ground

> the capacitor!

>

I really don't know how to answer except to say your first post is bullshit. yes since you are running a regulator you won't blow bulbs. my problem is the thinking process, there does not seem to be any.

voltage comes from the regulator we also know its not positive because you are using a diode. the diode turns ac to dc, cap smooths out the blinking but does not need to be close to the bulb. the worse place as far as rattling goes is in the tail. obviously you want to have the cap in there if you don't have to.

here is my take: ac from the regulator>diode rectifier>capacitor positive then ground the capacitor to the frame>positive to taillight.

Man this is a ridiculously petty argument... Yes you can hot glue/silicon components in a taillight.........

It’s been running fine for weeks now, no blinking no burnouts just nice lighting.....

cracking in the tail light is easily avoidable, don't put junk in there. this problem was predicted and you were told.

Ive been running this setup for months. The lights work great and look awesome. The only problem ive had was the inner bulb holder/ reflector kept cracking on me from high speed vibration, lotsa following up with super glue.

its not a rediculous to say with a little thought you could have modernized your whole bike to 12v dc without hot glue. the same parts you bought and with the same regulator. don't argue basic principles, bigger is better with capacitors.

« Go to Topics — end of thread

Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first:

Login or Create Account