you need the threaded puller or you'll destroy the flywheel.
This should be the right one, measure the width on the flywheel with calipers, if it's 26mm it's the right one
https://www.treatland.tv/puch-bosch-flywheel-puller-p/puch-bosch-flywheel-puller.htm (edited)
> Aaron Blair Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> you need the threaded puller or you'll destroy the flywheel.
>
> This should be the right one, measure the width on the flywheel with
> calipers, if it's 26mm it's the right one
>
> https://www.treatland.tv/puch-bosch-flywheel-puller-p/puch-bosch-flywheel-puller.htm
Ahh ok kinda like a motorcycle flywheel puller. Cool, thanks.
Are there any other specialty tools I'll need to tear the bike down?
> Ce Zar Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Aaron Blair Wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > you need the threaded puller or you'll destroy the flywheel.
>
> >
>
> > This should be the right one, measure the width on the flywheel with
>
> > calipers, if it's 26mm it's the right one
>
> >
>
> >
> https://www.treatland.tv/puch-bosch-flywheel-puller-p/puch-bosch-flywheel-puller.htm
>
> Ahh ok kinda like a motorcycle flywheel puller. Cool, thanks.
>
> Are there any other specialty tools I'll need to tear the bike down?
Not really specialty tools but there are tools that makes certain things easier.
The bike looks so dope. Please don’t paint it.
are you tryna get the side covers to paint too?
The reason I'd recommend doing it "piecemeal" is to identify other problems which need to be fixed before buying new stuff. But if you're going full rebuild all new parts and committed to that cost, then yeah - go for it. It just bums me out if I put 800 bucks into new ignition and crank and cylinder and pipe and carb and get it all together only to realize the clutches are fucked up.
Read this: https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Rebuild_a_Puch_E50_Engine
it's a different engine but generally pretty similar. with sachs you cannot use a piston stop, so hold the crank from turning other ways - lowest risk is a flywheel holder but that's another tool to buy plus I expect you intend to replace the whole ignition? maybe HPI? and it won't work with the HPI. moderate risk is a rope or similar shoved in the plug hole, or using something like a screwdriver through the flywheel holes, can be tricky depending on ignition, be carefu what you brace against. or brace the crank against the case with the jug off as in the linked rebuild tutorial.
you def want a flywheel puller. but u can also just hammer it off (but first research proper hammering-off-flywheels technique
other things, you probably want to have a Dremel to make all the parts you buy that don't quite fit actually fit, and to match cases and porting on the new cylinder.
An impact driver (even just a hammer type one) cuz the case bolts are probably stuck
i'd recommend welding tabs to the exhaust header to spring mount it up to holes drilled in the bottom cylinder fins, this makes the unreliable sachs exhaust mounting essentially a nonissue. you'd need 1 welder and 1 drill and 2 extra springs.
you'll want GOOD tire levers if you're changing the tires yourself, which you 100% should be.
likewise good cable cutters are a very useful item.
blind bearing puller or alternately a ball joint fork is really helpful for removing bearings from the crank
everything else I can think of is parts, not specialty tools. I'd recommend again the plugging the decomp and double nutting the clutch nut
Not sure if necessary but this tool makes clutch work easier.
https://www.doscycles.com/products/sachs-clutch-holding-tool?variant=8167884718182
> J D Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> The bike looks so dope. Please don’t paint it.
I'm gonna!
By the way I was looking closer at the paint. It's clearly pink from the factory. It has all the original Sachs made in germany decals with cracking on them that only comes from time. Was pink some rare color? My offer to trade body parts off still stands if anyone REALLY cares, but otherwise this thing is getting painted.
I will say I have changed my mind on color, it's getting Ford grabber blue.
> are you tryna get the side covers to paint too?
100%. Where can I get them?
> The reason I'd recommend doing it "piecemeal" is to identify other
> problems which need to be fixed before buying new stuff.
I rather just open my checkbook. Let's treat this like a ground-up build.
> lowest risk is a flywheel holder but that's another tool to buy plus I
> expect you intend to replace the whole ignition? maybe HPI? and it won't
> work with the HPI. moderate risk is a rope or similar shoved in the plug
> hole, or using something like a screwdriver through the flywheel holes,
> can be tricky depending on ignition, be carefu what you brace against.
> or brace the crank against the case with the jug off as in the linked
> rebuild tutorial.
Interesting. I think I can work something out or fabricate a tool. I have a mill.
> An impact driver (even just a hammer type one) cuz the case bolts are
> probably stuck
Not a problem.
> i'd recommend welding tabs to the exhaust header to spring mount it up
> to holes drilled in the bottom cylinder fins, this makes the unreliable
> sachs exhaust mounting essentially a nonissue. you'd need 1 welder and 1
> drill and 2 extra springs.
I will be doing this.
> you'll want GOOD tire levers if you're changing the tires yourself,
> which you 100% should be.
Gotcha. I have one.. should I buy a second?
> likewise good cable cutters are a very useful item.
What for?
> everything else I can think of is parts, not specialty tools. I'd
> recommend again the plugging the decomp
Does this mean to disable it? What are the side effects? Hard starting?
Thanks again for all the info guys.
It sounds like you’d prefer to mod it, than restore it. That’s a shame in this case.
You should sell it and buy a different one to mod, or just build a new one from the ground up.
Anyway, best of luck with it.
¡¡¡¡¡Leave the pink as is!!!!!!
You'll be 100% cooler if you get everything sorted and leave the paint as is.
> Ce Zar Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > J D Wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > The bike looks so dope. Please don’t paint it.
>
> I'm gonna!
>
>
>
> By the way I was looking closer at the paint. It's clearly pink from the
> factory. It has all the original Sachs made in germany decals with
> cracking on them that only comes from time. Was pink some rare color? My
> offer to trade body parts off still stands if anyone REALLY cares, but
> otherwise this thing is getting painted.
>
> I will say I have changed my mind on color, it's getting Ford grabber
> blue.
Is this your brothers build? Looks like you guys like restoring stuff in blue? https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?2,4393292,4393371,flat=1#msg-4393371
> Is this your brothers build? Looks like you guys like restoring stuff in
> blue?
Hideous. Frame will stay black.
Still need to know where to find the side body panels.
Also, got the bike tore down today, only thing left is the forks--how do I disassemble the front?
front end comes off with the 2 top forktube nuts and the head nut. those 3 points off, then the top of the triple tree comes off and the rest slides out the bottom of the headtube.
plugging the decomp along with lots of other relevant important info is in the 505/1a performance wiki page I linked before. The decomp is unnecessary on sachs and commonly prone to failure - much easier to just nix that now than have it crop up later and cause confusion. Like it's so negligible of a difference in starting you'd never notice, but the issues it causes wind up being rather non-obvious and lead people to all sorts of other fixes, thinking it's too rich or too lean or timing etc, and its just another dumb leaky sachs decomp
1 good tire lever is pretty important, 2 is easier, 3 is useless. if you're good you don't need any, but 1 is easier and the second can be useful often. Good cable cutters are just something I like that saves frustration. you're likely to have to cut your own cables to adjust lengths etc - especially if you want this to look good, and having good cutters means it's a lot less likely to fray the ends, it's easier to get it cleanly where you want it and also easier to affix screw on barrels to the ends (aka "knarps") which you'll probably be using unless you're goin thru all the effort of setting up to solder your own cable ends, and even then clean cuts are pretty critical to success
> Born to be WillD Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> front end comes off with the 2 top forktube nuts and the head nut. those
> 3 points off, then the top of the triple tree comes off and the rest
> slides out the bottom of the headtube.
>
> plugging the decomp along with lots of other relevant important info is
> in the 505/1a performance wiki page I linked before. The decomp is
> unnecessary on sachs and commonly prone to failure - much easier to just
> nix that now than have it crop up later and cause confusion. Like it's
> so negligible of a difference in starting you'd never notice, but the
> issues it causes wind up being rather non-obvious and lead people to all
> sorts of other fixes, thinking it's too rich or too lean or timing etc,
> and its just another dumb leaky sachs decomp
>
> 1 good tire lever is pretty important, 2 is easier, 3 is useless. if
> you're good you don't need any, but 1 is easier and the second can be
> useful often. Good cable cutters are just something I like that saves
> frustration. you're likely to have to cut your own cables to adjust
> lengths etc - especially if you want this to look good, and having good
> cutters means it's a lot less likely to fray the ends, it's easier to
> get it cleanly where you want it and also easier to affix screw on
> barrels to the ends (aka "knarps") which you'll probably be using unless
> you're goin thru all the effort of setting up to solder your own cable
> ends, and even then clean cuts are pretty critical to success
Thanks for the info! I'll go tear the forks apart later.
Is this a solid choice?
If so, what other parts do I need to get to go with it?
Got it down to the bare frame:
Question, can these be further taken apart:
Also, I would like to replace the entire fork setup with new / aftermarket. Is that possible?
PM’d ya about a potential tank/trunk trade.
Also yes, you can take the fork legs outta the lower yoke, and disassemble the lower legs from the uppers though there’s not a ton of benefit to rebuilding old springers vs. oem hydro forks. I would suggest EBR’s for a resto, since from the picture it kinda looks like your lower yoke might be tweaked anyway
> MPB Andyrew Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Not sure if necessary but this tool makes clutch work easier.
>
> https://www.doscycles.com/products/sachs-clutch-holding-tool?variant=8167884718182
I consider this tool a necessity unless you’ve got oodles of cash to spend on therapy from the intense amount of stress and ptsd you’ll incur from working on that sachs clutch without it. (edited)
> Ce Zar Wrote:
> -----------------------------------------------------
> I do want the side panels that are missing--where can I track a set of
> those down? As for floorboards--they came with the bike but not
> attached.
Those G3 side panels are like looking for a needle in a haystack, and when they do pop up, they’re not cheap. I’ve had people offer me enough money over the years for my original matching pair that I could have gone and bought another moped, probably another shitty moped, but a moped none the less. I would budget between $100-$200 for those panels alone if you can ever find them.
> I'm looking to move quick on this whole thing. I'll tear it down Sunday
> and make a parts list and then hopefully order everything at once.
> Budget is ~500 not including paint. Enough?
Eeeeehhh, I wish I coulda rebuilt my g3 for only $500! I’m too embarrassed to say how much money I’ve thrown at mine, but just remember the blissful feeling of riding a working moped is PRICELESS.
>
> Bike has 273 miles btw
You mean the odometer only has 273. I hate to be the one to let you know your new moped has been lying to you, but it’s extremely easy to ride it for a seven thousand miles and it will still say 273.
Also, the Sachs G3 spare parts list PDF book is a necessity. You can find it free online. Has diagrams of how the entire thing fits together and such. I end up referencing it just about every I wrench and keep a spare printed copy in my moped tool bag I keep on my pizza rack.
^ A pizza rack is essential equipment! :)
> Amanda B. Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > MPB Andyrew Wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Not sure if necessary but this tool makes clutch work easier.
>
> >
>
> >
> https://www.doscycles.com/products/sachs-clutch-holding-tool?variant=8167884718182
>
> I consider this tool a necessity unless you’ve got oodles of cash to
> spend on therapy from the intense amount of stress and ptsd you’ll incur
> from working on that sachs clutch without it.
Cool. I'll just fabricate this though.
> Amanda B. Wrote:
> Those G3 side panels are like looking for a needle in a haystack, and
> when they do pop up, they’re not cheap. I’ve had people offer me enough
> money over the years for my original matching pair that I could have
> gone and bought another moped, probably another shitty moped, but a
> moped none the less. I would budget between $100-$200 for those panels
> alone if you can ever find them.
I'm willing to pay that but if I don't track down a sit in the next two weeks they're getting skipped for this build. I need to get the body and frame to the paint shop.
> Eeeeehhh, I wish I coulda rebuilt my g3 for only $500! I’m too
> embarrassed to say how much money I’ve thrown at mine, but just remember
> the blissful feeling of riding a working moped is PRICELESS.
It's become clear that $500 is not nearly enough. New budget is 2k. I'm going to sell my ninja 650 to fund this project :)
> You mean the odometer only has 273. I hate to be the one to let you know
> your new moped has been lying to you, but it’s extremely easy to ride it
> for a seven thousand miles and it will still say 273.
I very much doubt it has any more. It's clearly been sitting in a garage for 40 years. I suspect it had close to 0 until very recently actually. It has a brand new carb so someone got it running.
> Also, the Sachs G3 spare parts list PDF book is a necessity. You can
> find it free online. Has diagrams of how the entire thing fits together
> and such. I end up referencing it just about every I wrench and keep a
> spare printed copy in my moped tool bag I keep on my pizza rack.
Got it, very helpful. Also have wiring diagrams and a D engine book. Anyone have any other docs?
> iskra chornia Wrote:
> I would suggest
> EBR’s for a resto, since from the picture it kinda looks like your lower
> yoke might be tweaked anyway
Yep, I'm buying the EBRS.
https://www.treatland.tv/sachs-HERCULES-chrome-EBR-forks-p/sachs-ebr-chrome-forks.htm
These, right?
> iskra chornia Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> PM’d ya about a potential tank/trunk trade.
>
> Also yes, you can take the fork legs outta the lower yoke, and
> disassemble the lower legs from the uppers though there’s not a ton of
> benefit to rebuilding old springers vs. oem hydro forks. I would suggest
> EBR’s for a resto, since from the picture it kinda looks like your lower
> yoke might be tweaked anyway
So you going to trade this guy? Please don’t kill that perfect pink paint job, it needs to live on..
Before you consider repainting this ped please look at the big picture and take into consideration all possibilities. I have never ever seen one of these in any other color other than fire engine red. You might very well have an original promotion or one off ped that was painted that way from the manufacturer. All I'm asking is that you research and look into it more.
This
> ian c Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I like how your only concern is painting the pink. Dude if you paint
> over that pink paint you should probably go back to rebuilding gy6
> scooters. That shits dope..
If you paint it, you will have the most hated moped in the history of moped culture.
Pro golfer bubba Watson painted over the Confederate flag on one of the four original dukes of Hazzard driver cars, because of what the flag represents, replaced it with a USA flag, and now has a cool 69 charger worth about 1/10 of what it would be if he left it alone, and ruined one of the most iconic tv cars ever.
(Disclaimer: I am in no way advocating the use of the stars and bars flag.)
OnE oF tHe FoUr OrIgInAlS
they wrecked 300 cars making that show! so awesome. so moped.
https://www.thevintagenews.com/2019/04/01/dukes-of-hazzard/
the only thing more moped than riding around a trash, sun-faded red-to-pink paint job is rattlecanning them in hideous colors, completely thumbing your nose at any notion of the historical value of these shitty toy motorcycles.
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