Ok, I’ve done pretty much all I can to get this corrected. So it still scrapes. Can I sand the inside of the flywheel?
Your crank is bent. Sanding won't solve a problem, only hide a symptom. If it works at all.
How do you determine that Terbo?
Moved to repair
> Les B. Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> How do you determine that Terbo?
If you have a dial indicator you can check it with that, if not you may be able to clamp a straight edge close to the crank and rotate it to see if the gap changes.
This crank maxed out the indicator it was bent more than .012”. I think someone dropped it at one point you can see the threads on the end we’re bent as well. (edited)
If you are mixing and matching parts you may have the wrong stator/coils for that flywheel. There were at least two different flywheels, the lighter stock flywheel uses coils that will not fit the standard flywheel.
^^^^ I mentioned this in the last thread about this issue.
Check the ID on your flywheel vs. the OD on the assembly.
make sure your flywheel is seated all the way down on the taper. do you have to use a puller to remove the flywheel after the crank nut has been torqued down? if it kinda flops off with little to no torque on the puller, than the flywheel is not correctly seating on the taper. i've lathed down countless cam followers 1mm +/- 0.5mm to allow the flywheel to fully seat on the taper and correct this issue.
Declan g, the only new parts are condenser, points, and replaced bad coil wire. As for the flywheel, yes I use the puller. I feel it " pop" every time.
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