I just bought a 1978 tas sprinter and having a tough time with wiring. Any help would be great, thanks.
Neat, really weird taiwan made bike.
That wiring looks like it's been messed with badly. If I were you I'd start from scratch. To make it run you just need to run the points wire to the ht coil and make sure the kill wire on the ht coil isn't grounded. Lights on the other hand will be interesting as I never found the diagrams when I had one 15 years ago..hey a multimeter, clean the points and see what you can do.
Engine is very similar to a solo in appearance... (edited)
Thanks for your response. I couldn't pass this moped by...I just don't understand the 2 diodes going from stator to harness.
What diodes? Mine diddnt have that. You have a picture of them? Maybe someone tried to make a rectifier.
Edit, ohh wow I see it now. I'm not sure any of that is wired right, but it looks like they were trying to float dc for some reason.
It came stock on bike because it has the original sprinter logo on one side. I think it prevents current from re-entering stator?
Really! Wow. Maybe mine was modded then.huh. I'm more surprised that a moped company would go through the trouble of molding a models name into the plastic......
Well it must have been designed that way then, the electrical tape stillreally concerns me. Anyway, most mopeds are ac, meaning the current is meant to go back into the stator. It flipflops with every revolution.
With that, the power is rectified into pulsed dc. Instead of power flowing back and forth those diodes are a one way valve. One of the wires coming out of that diode block is positive, the other is negative. Because the chassis ground isn't being used, it's called "floating". Those wires are only for lighting.
Wow, that's interesting. Do you think I could eliminate the diodes and just run headlight and brake/tail lights?
Probably.lol but if that works, and like you said it's meant to be there. I wouldn't
Take your multimeter and set it to dc volts. Then connect the probes to the two wires exiting the block. Spin over the engine if you get voltage you have your power for lights right there.
Wait is there only one wire entering the diode block?
yellow in, yellow red out.
I'm confused, diddnt look closely enough. Thought I was seeing one yellow go in and a yellow and an orange exit....
Somebody else will chime in with more knowledge.
This bike never had a battery, correct?
I cannot find where a battery would of went. 3 wires from stator-yellow, black to kill and green that is not used.
red goes to horn first.
This is educated speculation, but it doesn't hurt.
You shouldn't have a kill wire coming out of the stator, and if you do then you would also have a spark plug wire coming directly out of the stator. Because you would have a stator mounted high voltage coil.
One of those three wires is expressly for the brake light(required by dot so the like won't start with a blown brake light), one handles headlight, tail light and horn, and one handles ignition. I'm almost certain that's how mine was.
The ignition wire should exit the stator and connect to the high voltage coil, it looks like a black brick with the spark plug wire coming out of it, bolted directly to the frame...the kill wire "should" connect to that coil, outside of the stator.
I'd there any way you could post more pictures of the bike? The stator, wires exiting stator etc?
To be clear, everything I'm saying could be bullshit. As I'm not there looking at it and I sold mine 15 years ago. (edited)
Do you still have the condenser? Should mount in that offset round hole. If not it's a non issue, I use old vw condensers.
Well with that picture we definatly have enough info to at least get it running if the engine is serviceable.
> Doug Coleman Wrote:
> I pulled the condenser and tried testing it. set on ohms but didnt
> charge? pulled exhaust and plug, piston rotates nicely and cylinder and
> heads rings look like low mileage.
It stayed on 1 on the multimeter? What range are you trying? Try the highest range, it should ride in resistance the longer you measure it
by the way, thanks Aaron!
I am going to have to order 2 diodes and try to figure out how to wire them because I took the rubber housing off to see what was in there.
So the stator has two source coils and three wires right? If the ignition source coil (the one wired to the points and condenser) has one wire leaving the magneto, you can connect that wire directly to the external HT coil and it should have spark. Your kill wire would be connected to that same wire and simply connect it to ground to stop the motor. The two other wires would be for the lights and horn and don't affect the ignition circuit. If the ignition source coil has two wires the one that connects to the points and condenser goes the ht coil as above, but the other wire has to be connected to get spark. Often this wire runs the tail light so that if the tail light goes it, the moped stops running. The single wire from the other coil would supply the headlight, horn and brake light.
great help, thank you.
I highly doubt you'll need those diodes. Give the post time, it'll get worked out. Also, there's no reason to buy a specific condenser with mopeds. As long as it has a grounding/mounting strap and one wire. It'll work and you can bolt it to the frame externally.
I'd aim for spark and getting it running first, you have alot if not all the info here to do that... then when it does you can measure the output if the lighting coils and see if you need to rectify or regulate it. If you do need to, NO PROBLEM don't worry about that thing and adapt one of the many many other solutions available for mopeds. It's just electricity, bike doesn't care what brand of part or style of device as long as it works.
Also could we get more picture of the engine itself? I'm not certain but I think this thing may be the first instance of a solo clone. Without the odd water cooling but still. The angle and position of that carb screams solo
The engine is japanese made according to myrons and I'm facinated by this! Could we see the carb too, does it have reed valves on the intake?
It looks Soo similar
Wonder Which ignition coil is original, the red one or the black one. Odd that you somehow have two.
One thing is for sure, it looks to be in very good shape.
You may have a bit of an issue with timing. Don't see a woodruff key.
I hope that the crank seals are good, with no information they may be hard to find replacements for if they aren't marked clearly.
Not a total clone, but still looks very similar to a solo engine.
You aren't going to find a clutch cover, but another bikes may be adapted easily.
The clutch is a Laura M48 clone, unfortunately it's different enough to the point that I don't think a Batavus or Motobecane clutch cover would fit.
Nice, I just picked up one of these as well!
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