WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Everywhere I've looked they are sold out.

Anyone have one they would like to part with?

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Uhhh just use an M6 coupling nut and a set screw? Probably like 3 bucks at the hardware store.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

In its defense, the M6 stud installer is a pretty great tool. There are some generic metric sets on eBay.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

I just hand tighten the studs now

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

> MPB Andyrew Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Uhhh just use an M6 coupling nut and a set screw? Probably like 3 bucks

> at the hardware store.

^ this. so easy, and uses that 10mm socket you've already got set aside

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Richard Eberline /

This MP installer, removes M6 studs and installs. There are other brands.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Terbo Speghetti /

These things fuck threads up real good, you don't want it.

Double nut like your grandaddy did

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Richard Eberline /

The double nut does the most damage, by far.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Thanks for the idea, never thought of that. Sounds super easy!

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Hey Rocco, do the studs not need to be torqued in the case? Just hand tight is tight enough? Completely new at this... may be a dumb question. Also probably the wrong forum as well..

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

> Sean Daugherty Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Hey Rocco, do the studs not need to be torqued in the case? Just hand

> tight is tight enough? Completely new at this... may be a dumb question.

> Also probably the wrong forum as well..

Hand tighten and you have to make sure the threads are clean. If the don’t chase the threads ( especially on old crusty engines) then the stud will just tighten up quickly and U’ll think your all set. You can tighten them down a lil with a wrench if you want. Some guys will tell you other wise.

Maybe this is why guys are braking studs. They torque & bottom the studs out on the case first, leaving no room for the stud to spin freely down into the case when they are torquing the head.

You want to grab enough threads to hold 7-11 lbs on both the case and head nuts(edited)

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Okay great, that does make sense on having enough threads to spin freely when torquing down the head. I'm going to buy studs because whats in there now is the long bolts. So they will be nice and clean. I will also clean out the threads in the case.

The coupler nut trick will work great with tightening them up just a little.

Thanks everyone who chimed in!

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Dirty30 Dillon /

You are supposed to bottom out your studs. When you tighten the nut, YOU SHOULD NOT BE TURNING THE STUD.

ANY mechanic will tell you this is the case. You never want to be applying torque loads by pulling steel threads through aluminum threads. This is specifically a great way to fuck your stud holes.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

May be a dumb question but how do you know when your studs bottom out? They just won't go down any further I'm assuming?

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Dirty30 Dillon /

Correct, or you have reached the end of the threads on the stud and the shoulder is resting on the case. It is different per each manufacturer

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Okay cool. Should be super straight forward it sounds like. Thanks for the response!

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

“In the majority of cases, screw the studs into the block FINGER-TIGHT ONLY, or with a very slight amount of pre-load (specific manufacturers may recommend as much as about 8 to 10 ft.-lbs. of pre-load). Do not double-nut the stud and tighten severely. Remember — the torque value given for the installation refers to the tightening of the nut only, not the stud itself!”

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Angry Hipster /

While we're on this subject did the factory use loctite or anything since they aren't too tight in the cases?

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

> Angry Hipster Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> While we're on this subject did the factory use loctite or anything

> since they aren't too tight in the cases?

No no no, stop think of studs as mounting bolts and more like wire cable ties. The stud is used to keep tension on all the mating surfaces evenly.

8-10 threads deep can hold a lot of force.

Look at a boat jack

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Dirty30 Dillon /

> Rocco Taco Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> “In the majority of cases, screw the studs into the block FINGER-TIGHT

> ONLY, or with a very slight amount of pre-load (specific manufacturers

> may recommend as much as about 8 to 10 ft.-lbs. of pre-load). Do not

> double-nut the stud and tighten severely. Remember — the torque value

> given for the installation refers to the tightening of the nut only, not

> the stud itself!”

What are you quoting?

Earlier you hypothesized that people who bottomed out their studs were snapping them because they weren't leaving "room for the stud to screw in."

No, You don't torque down studs to head nut specs, but they should be bottomed out or shouldered in the case to specifically avoid turning as you apply torque to the head nut.

I will also put a little medium strength threadlock on my studs, especially in bikes with brand new cases where the stud threads are new and clean, so that I am not accidentally unthreading them as I pull the motor apart again and again.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

> Dirty30 Dillon Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Rocco Taco Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > “In the majority of cases, screw the studs into the block FINGER-TIGHT

>

> > ONLY, or with a very slight amount of pre-load (specific manufacturers

>

> > may recommend as much as about 8 to 10 ft.-lbs. of pre-load). Do not

>

> > double-nut the stud and tighten severely. Remember — the torque value

>

> > given for the installation refers to the tightening of the nut only,

> not

>

> > the stud itself!”

>

> What are you quoting?

>

> Earlier you hypothesized that people who bottomed out their studs were

> snapping them because they weren't leaving "room for the stud to screw

> in."

What makes you think I retracted that statement? We just see it two different ways. The lock tie is cool ( i like to let it dry on the stud first)

Well fuck I don’t think it matters that much if you prefer to pre-torque the studs ether way they are going to get torqued down to the same depth

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Dirty30 Dillon /

> Rocco Taco Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> What makes you think I retracted that statement? We just see it two

> different ways. The lock tie is cool ( i like to let it dry on the stud

> first)

I don't think you retracted something, but you put quotes around that entire response. You originally said "I think people snap studs because they don't leave room for the studd to thread in when tightening the head nuts."

Also, Loctite is an anaerobic sealant, so letting it dry before hand completely defeats the purpose of using it in the first place.

> Well fuck I don’t think it matters that much if you prefer to pre-torque

> the studs ether way they are going to get torqued down to the same depth

If you don't bottom/shoulder your studs and you are allowing them to spin while tightening the head nuts, you are causing unneeded wear and force on the weak aluminum case threads.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

> Dirty30 Dillon Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Rocco Taco Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > What makes you think I retracted that statement? We just see it two

>

> > different ways. The lock tie is cool ( i like to let it dry on the

> stud

>

> > first)

>

> I don't think you retracted something, but you put quotes around that

> entire response. You originally said "I think people snap studs because

> they don't leave room for the studd to thread in when tightening the

> head nuts."

>

> Also, Loctite is an anaerobic sealant, so letting it dry before hand

> completely defeats the purpose of using it in the first place.

>

> > Well fuck I don’t think it matters that much if you prefer to

> pre-torque

>

> > the studs ether way they are going to get torqued down to the same

> depth

>

> If you don't bottom/shoulder your studs and you are allowing them to

> spin while tightening the head nuts, you are causing unneeded wear and

> force on the weak aluminum case

I doubt the spin much, but yea I could see at 6-7lb the threads getting yaked. I dkn , iv done both ways & the hand tighting seems to work fine. torque those fuckers till there is no threads left on top to grab. It’s just over kill I think

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

***Kim Jong illest*** /

sure, the double nut "works" in a pinch, but its easy to damage threads that way too. hold out for the tool, they are so so so so so nice.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

vice grips on the studs work just fine with light tension to not screw up the threads(edited)

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

♣Slew Foot♣ /

On a new kit older model bike I will use stud mounting compound like when you do a head gasket on an engine block.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Disregard all input from rocco and you’ll be successful

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

I will bottom out the studs then torque the head down to spec. First I have to get a broken stud out with an extractor.... it should be here tomorrow.

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Overpriced Parts /

I got one and used it a few times but only if threads are perfectly clean and smooth and with just fingers (only if fingers are too greasy to just use my fingers directly on the stud) like I say to do below:

Before any install Spray wd or Walmart lubricant with the straw in stud hole making sure perfect clean, clean and or chase threads on studs especially if rusted (in the case too if needed)

Blow all out both with air, make sure studs are straight then you should be able to finger tight stud pretty much near the bottom and a crank or two with vice grips at the base of the stud should seat it,

Stock from the factory studs are pretty much the best to use/reuse, most aftermarket ones are too loose and or not strong so I usually try to fix up the stock ones first

Re: WTB Motion Pro m6 Stud Installer

Dirty30 Dillon /

Spraying WD40 is not cleaning. You're just shooting oil and crud down there.

Clean with brake clean to get an oil-free surface, and put a dab of loctite on there.

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