MOPED ARMY

remove the thick head gasket with a allen wrench

set the idle screw high

then set the H and L screws to the manual.

mine burnt up, but I had em good.

Carb works like chainsaw

checks bulbs for shorts, tail and headlamp

Thanks Johnny.

I've got the high performance models, so they both should just have the 1 thin head gasket. I'll have to double check that when I get home today.

The H and L screws were both set to the manual specifications, 1-1/8 turns open. The idle stop screw was set to 1 turn open, I believe that is a high idle speed setting, correct? Should I turn it all the way clockwise until it stops?

Also, the manual says the the spark plug gap should be .030, but the guy from snorunner.com told me it should be .035. Not sure if it really matters as long as it's somewhere in that range, thoughts?

I'll have to check both the bulbs in the headlight and taillight, hopefully that's the problem.

Let me know if you think of anything else.

Hey Keith,

Yeah, that could be the problem. I actually (mostly) rebuilt both the carbs with new carb kits, but I couldn't get a socket wrench over the nut that the needle seats into, see attached circled in pink. The space is super tight, the socket needs to be incredibly thin if I'm gonna have a chance of fitting it in there and taking it off to replace with new one. The nut also has a new piece of rubber that the needle will seat into. Let me know if you have any other ideas about getting that nut out of there.

Thanks

Alright, I'll try that. The tip is metal on the needle, so I won't have to worry about that. I would still like to replace the nut that the needle fits into along with that rubber piece, maybe I'll try to find a thin socket at the hardware store tonight.

The fuel filter your using should be the type with the check ball inside, so the filter will allow fuel to be drawn up to the carburetor and not drain back into the tank. This is a must have part, because the carburetor is higher and further away from the fuel draw. Also, the fuel line should be long enough so the filter reaches the bottom of the tank, but short enough so the filter moves from side to side. Chrysler Marine states 24:1, you should running between 40:1 and 50:1 with a good injector 2 cycle oil (Amsoil) or snowmobile injector oil. 24:1 is way too thick.

Definitely green inside. That should clean up, if you have a new seat and the tool to remove it , perfect!

Bingo, that's your problem! Take that o-ring/seal out of there. I've worked on many Tillotson carburetors including your HL320a and never have I seen a gasket installed in there. I believe the needle is hanging up because of it. The needle is supposed to sit at the bottom of the brass seat and move freely. The needle is actuated by the fulcrum and diaphragm. Read up on "Fulcrum Adjustment".

Yes, I would remove them. Check the exploded view of the carb., no seal, only a gasket beneath the seat. Like I said, I have never seen that before. You have to remember these Snorunners/Snorabbits have changed hands probably more times than you think. That seal was probably put there for some overly rich problem, which was the wrong thing to do.

Sure thing, if I can't get them running with those seals in I'll definitely take them out and give it a try. Thanks for the help.

Can't believe it, but the Sno-Runner with the weak spark actually started with very little effort. Just waiting on some snow now.

So do you know if your carburetor is actually pulling gas into the fuel lines? Also, did you replace the fuel line and filter that are located inside the gas tank? If the carb isn’t pulling gas then this is more than likely your problem. The fuel lines in the tanks of both of my Sno-Runners were completely deteriorated and in pieces inside the tank, see pages 18 and 19 (Illus No. 19 and 20). I would recommend on using clear polyurethane fuel line so you can see if fuel is actually flowing to the carb.

You need to clean out the carb really well if you haven’t done so already. I would also get a carb re-build kit, it will save you a lot of headaches. I’ve include links to the carb re-build kit along with a carb rebuild video and the fuel line and filter that’s located inside the gas tank. You can find the fuel line and filter on Amazon for way cheaper than the Sno-Runner website, this is just an example of what they look like.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078SQWQI/

http://snorunner.com/products/fuel-line-kit-disconnect

Had a day off and took a look at it. Carburetor was in fact rebuilt, never seen one so clean. Started putting it all back together and I heard a rattle in the throttle assembly that attaches to the carb. Long story short, the screw that holds the lever in place had wiggled free. Started after 3 pulls once I had it all back together.

Wasn't idling well so I was adjusting the three screws when the rip cord broke, so that's next. Gotta love tinkering.

Did you make sure to open the vent on top of the fuel tank cap? If not, then fuel won't flow to the carb. Also, make sure that the hole in the vent screw isn't clogged with any debris.

I honestly can't remember off the top of my head, but I felt like it was kind of a gradual flow until it completely filled up the exterior fuel line to the carb. Make sure that the gas tanks interior fuel line isn't kinked and that the in-line fuel filter isn't clogged with sediment. Also, you have to have a decent amount of gas in the tank in order for the carb to pull the fuel correctly. I have a PDF of the Sno-Runner Service Manual and Owners Manual if you need it. Just send me a PM with your email address and I'll pass them along.

Did you manage to get this figured out? I had the same issue when I was dealing with my issues above. Make sure the throttle assembly that attaches to the carb is correctly installed and that the screw that holds the little lever is in fact screwed into the carb. Mine actually isn't holding well and it comes back out. Going to maybe try an aftermarket screw and see if it holds any better. Might require the purchase of a new throttle assembly ($$$$) if it is stripped.