that's pretty much exactly it. instead of even really hammering in it you should be able to get a wide flathead blade in the notch and twist so it pushes the cover out. wiggle top a little bottom a little back and forth to work it off. after it's been off a few times it's easy but they can stick on good while sitting and may take some whacks.
2nd point, ground the blue/black wire from the engine while checking spark. have just the blue wire going into the coil directly. this omits any possible issues in the killswitch wiring or brake light wiring that could also make it not spark. This way you also don't need to worry about any of the wires going up to the controls or behind the headlights. IF those are your problem at least you'll know, you can bypass and check spark and veriy everything else works and eitherbypass the killswitch for everyday use or focus on rewiring.
3rd there's just the spade connector blue wire going into the coil. unbolt the coil, twist out the plug wire if you're keeping that. the other wire on the coil's a ground and I think it should just be and eyelet bolted on around one of the coil bolts.
If you mean removing the wires from the 4 wire connector block, with a small driver you can carefully pull those wires out individually but what I usually do is cut that block out and splice in some simple crimp connectors to reconnect each wire individually. that way you can easily disconnect and reconnect each wire, and it's easier to shorten wires and hide them under the frame to tidy up the aesthetics or whatever.