headlight cut out midway through my ride home last night, real scary
spent all morning trying to figure out what came disconnected or broke or what?
i think maybe i just need a new headlight?
Disconnect the lamp and connect it directly to a 12 volt battery .
If it lights , that's good and you can then look for another cause .
hah, I was lookin at this like hey that's the dirtped person
I would get a little test light, you can by em for dirt cheap any autoparts store or rig your own with a known good bulb.
Just connect wires and see if it's getting power to the headlight. if yeah, but no light, can be pretty sure the bulbs burned out. alternately go the reverse, hook up a lil 12v battery across the light and see if it lights, then you know bulbs bad, or wires to the ulb are the troubls.
if it is blown out, glass sealed beam is probably an order online part - if you need to get riding again ASAP, snag a 12v foglight from autoparts store and wire that in. but might get lucky and they have a GE44XX series "tractor bulb" light that'll clip right in. 4411 is the direct replacement, I think 4406 has a clear lens, theres others.
Haha, yes it me, moped wrenchie in training~
Thanks for all the info! moped electrics are still super confusing to me. MY asap fix was to tape a flashlight to the top
while i'm at it, what exactly is the way to beef up moped electrics to make lights brighter? i would really love to have a 60/60w headlight, but im not sure if my bike will do that yes, seeing as everything goes dim when you honk the horn, and the bike would lose power completely when i still had the braking light hooked up.
are LEDs the answer?? i just dont know
this comes up fairly often - you can usually beef up output by replacing the coil if bigger ones exist for your bike. tomos though I dunno, it's already a good 12v coil. 2nd because they're without a battery the voltage fluctuates a decent amount depending on RPM so mopeds require voltage regulators to cut down max output and keep em from burning bulbs. Best way to resolve that is a battery which soaks up excess and levels output, but your alternator magneto is putting out alternating current which needs to be rectified to DC to charge a battery.
LED's are tough and don't like AC current or high voltages so they're often real quick to burn out, or inherently just dimmer and prone to flickering due to the fact that an LED is a light emitting DIODE, which permits only one direction current (DC)flow, and AC from your engine is AC...
you can add in a rectifier and run a battery though. just not super easy or cheap but makes for brighter steadier lights and much easier on LEDs
(this means Caxe was right about the rectifier and i just lost an agrument)
But the info is good! i have a 12v battery i could mount in my seat tub and do the whole rectifier thing, but i might just run some big ass bulbs around, just seems easier in the long run
tested the bulb, it sure is blown! and upon closer inspection it is the 4411 tractor bulb, lol
The white wire came off th3 headlight it is the common ground for high and low beam.
> ♣Slew Foot♣ Wrote:
> The white wire came off th3 headlight it is the common ground for high
> and low beam.
I don’t know where I’d attatch that white wire too, the bulb is grounded to the inside of the rim that holds the bulb by a black wire coming off of the bulb, you can see it well in the picture
Replace the ground you made for the white one. P.o. replaced the headlight w a tractor bulb. It should have the square headbucket the white would be middle terminal..
you've got too many wires. i'll show you how i wire mine. minimalist style. i have 1 wire for spark, and 1 wire for lights. it's been quite reliable for me. and if anything goes wrong, you just got 1 wire to check.
I’ll gladly take a look, I’m getting real tired of the knots I have in this.
The only extraneous thing I wanna keep is the lightswitch and only kinda
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