1979 Puch Magnum Rear Axle Bent

Jonathan Bennett /

Anyone know what part to buy? It's a loose bearing spoke wheel.

Thanks,

JB

Re: 1979 Puch Magnum Rear Axle Bent

Maybe a straight axle ???

Re: 1979 Puch Magnum Rear Axle Bent

Jonathan Bennett /

> P D Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Maybe a straight axle ???

But do you really think that's what I need?? So difficult to determine!! :)

Re: 1979 Puch Magnum Rear Axle Bent

I'm sure that treats has em'

Re: 1979 Puch Magnum Rear Axle Bent

Jonathan Bennett /

> Aaron Blair Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I'm sure that treats has em'

That's where I'm confused. My Puch Magnum parts catalog says 180mm and I don't see that anywhere.

Do I buy one that is longer with a lot of threading like this one?

https://www.treatland.tv/loose-bearing-rear-axle-12mm-x-200mm-p/12mmx200mm-axle-c00113.htm

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Re: 1979 Puch Magnum Rear Axle Bent

> Jonathan Bennett Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > P D Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > Maybe a straight axle ???

>

> But do you really think that's what I need?? So difficult to

> determine!! :)

Pull the axle . Lay it on a flat surface and roll it . Any 'bend' will be obvious .

Re: 1979 Puch Magnum Rear Axle Bent

Overpriced Parts /

They get a slight bend in them because they’re not very hard so they don’t snap, even the sealed bearing ones most times have a slight bend in them after 40 years

What I do before I remove or adjust wheel, I marked the axles orientation with an pointed line pointed down scratched at the end of axle straight up and down that way when you remove it you could put it back the same way and that nothing will rub on brake plated and brakes will wear in same place,

You're talking about loose bearing axle and you need 100% original parts to put back in so just take your axle out leaving one side maybe freewheel side nuts on don’t lose any of the ball bearings, straighten it, clean all the balls, hold them against the cups with new grease and put the axle back in,

Using cone wrench (that’s what I call it) and other normal Wrench on the two nuts, setting wheel bearing play not too tight but not moving or clunking side to side either then lock the nuts,

That’s where experiencing comes in because sometimes you have to set it a little bit on the loose side because after you take the two locknuts it may grow a little tighter and also after you put the rear wheel one and tighten the axle nuts to hold a rear wheel it gets a bit tighter

Some people up to do seal bearing conversions but it seems to me that all you have to do is straighten your axle or leave it the way it is putting the wheel exactly in the same place when you took it off, usually after the first big bump you hit the axle will bend slightly so that ends will actually be curved down a bit so when you put the wheel on just have axle ends down a bit but if the wheel was put on and off a few times after it was bent then knows,

You could bring the bike and wheel over and I can show you how to mess with loose bearing wheel or any puch wheel and adjust a magnum’s rear wheel and brakes perfecto but I’m almost a hour drive away from ya

Re: 1979 Puch Magnum Rear Axle Bent

Jonathan Bennett /

> Overpriced Parts Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> They get a slight bend in them because they’re not very hard so they

> don’t snap, even the sealed bearing ones most times have a slight bend

> in them after 40 years

>

> What I do before I remove or adjust wheel, I marked the axles

> orientation with an pointed line pointed down scratched at the end of

> axle straight up and down that way when you remove it you could put it

> back the same way and that nothing will rub on brake plated and brakes

> will wear in same place,

>

> You're talking about loose bearing axle and you need 100% original parts

> to put back in so just take your axle out leaving one side maybe

> freewheel side nuts on don’t lose any of the ball bearings, straighten

> it, clean all the balls, hold them against the cups with new grease and

> put the axle back in,

>

> Using cone wrench (that’s what I call it) and other normal Wrench on the

> two nuts, setting wheel bearing play not too tight but not moving or

> clunking side to side either then lock the nuts,

>

> That’s where experiencing comes in because sometimes you have to set it

> a little bit on the loose side because after you take the two locknuts

> it may grow a little tighter and also after you put the rear wheel one

> and tighten the axle nuts to hold a rear wheel it gets a bit tighter

>

> Some people up to do seal bearing conversions but it seems to me that

> t all you have to do is straighten your axle or leave it the way it is

> putting the wheel exactly in the same place when you took it off,

> usually after the first big bump you hit the axle will bend slightly so

> that ends will actually be curved down a bit so when you put the wheel

> on just have axle ends down a bit but if the wheel was put on and off a

> few times after it was bent then knows,

>

> You could bring the bike and wheel over and I can show you how to mess

> s with loose bearing wheel or any puch wheel and adjust a magnum’s rear

> wheel and brakes perfecto but I’m almost a hour drive away from ya

Thanks for that and thanks for the offer. I rebuilt it a month ago and took it off last night to look at the brake pads because they suck. That's when I noticed a slight wobble in the brake housing when I rotated the axle. It's very slight, so it's probably best left alone at this point. I do think I need to loosen the cups a touch, they did seem to get tighter, or at least tighter than when I rebuilt it.

I definitely could us a tuning lesson from you one day.

JB

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