MOPED ARMY

Carbon build up doesnt mean your rich, it means your piston is getting hot and causing the oil to flash on the dome of the piston. I bet its not timed properly and you are using some random 2 t oil. Red plug means rusty tank.

When setting the point gap you want the flywheel to be a little past TDC, 15 degrees or so. Also, what's your oil ratio? And do you know what your compression/squish is?

Oh, I thought you set your gap exactly at TDC. Woops. Concerning the word “past TDC” do you set it 15 deg before or after TDC? Also I do not know compression nor squish. I just made sure to get the same thickness base & head gasket as the owner before me who had already kitted it. I know that’s kinda bad but I did it anyways.

I let the tank soak in evaporust for 48 hours & then flushed the tank with gas twice but I still get rust dust in my in-line 53 micron fuel filter. I also kept the one in the banjo inlet. I don’t know what to do besides keep changing filters lol this is my second one and I ordered more.

I knew it was odd! Last time I flushed it the gas was crystal clear & I let the stream hit a paper towel & zero specks! But as soon as I put it all back in order, it starts to build up like crazy! Suggestions?

Gotcha. Will I ever be? (no). Good thing this stuff is fun!!! What should I do about the carbon buildup? Re-set timing and gap?

One better is to derust with whatever water based cleaner you want then use ice cubes. They melt and always come out. The others?? Well, its unnecessary work getting them out.

Detachable tanks are easiest.

Step throughs are better done stripped to frame.

That's cool but this is Drakes thread.

Take some good clear pics of piston position (head off) in cylinder with relation to deck at tdc and exhaust/transfer ports at bdc with your current base gasket installed to visualize what’s going on in there. Might begin helping point to reasons for your carbon buildup.

Okay the vinegar will work but remember to deactivate it with baking soda when you rinse but to do it appropriately there are few steps that are a little advanced but give the best possible results 1 reverse electrolysis that is putting a piece of rebar that's isolated in a tank of washing lime you put the positive on the tank and the negative on the rod I'm pretty sure look it up in the wiki that will draw all the rust to the piece of rebar then when that's done you rinse it out with a little bit of vinegar left in it overnight to clean it the rest of the wall washing lime out then when you rinse it the next time after it dries get denatured alcohol and rinse it make sure you get it on all the metal parts then you use your tank repair gel of your choice whatever fiberglass or epoxy based stuff they have on the market and it will stick but you got to have a thin coat on the inside and it has to be complete you have to get everywhere inside of it and even coat stick it in the sundry and y'all have a tank that will last another 30-40 years for a step through if you can find a really really cool radiator guy it's a rarity that you can find one of these guys but they recoat the inside of Radiators they can do a step through they could recoat it with bronze and fix the worst of Tanks it costs but if you're really into it it's worth it

Slew foot,

This is Drake's thread and he's in CA. My bad for hijacking his thread. Drake sorry!

But Slewfoot, your a hop skip and a jump from me. Just north of Allentown in Bath. We should meet up.

If “pipe is getting cherry” refers to the pipe turning red (sorry, not fluent in moped-speak quite yet), my pipe turned red. I’m running an NGK B6HS. I’d love to ride but yes I am in California which is quite the trek! haha & okay once I’m running the mystery oil idea sounds like a good one- been hearing a lot of good stuff about it since I started this adventure

So many different ways to de-rust my tank! The reverse electrolysis sounds quite difficult. I’ll probably go the vinegar or Chris Straub’s route. If I act quickly when rinsing it will I be able to beat the flash rust or is it literally “flash” rust and appears within minutes?

What about my timing? I was at 15deg BTDC at idle RPMs. When I opened the throttle the reading started to go everywhere but I just blamed that on my cheap harbor freight timing light. Is this an issue?

Also, I mentioned it before but my gap might be larger than the intended .017” because I had to bend the feeler gauge to get behind the flywheel at TDC. The somebody said I shouldn’t even be setting my points gap at TDC. If not, where do I set it?? The video TravisTutorial put up had him & his roommate setting the gap at TDC. Is there another certain degree I should set my gap at? And could a too large gap be the cause of this overheating?