clutch drag

Alan Jackson /

my paloma dasl is a lot like a motobecane clutch and drive wise.

but even at idle it wants to turn the back wheel and stalls if back wheel is still

i'm new to these type of clutch/variators. is it simply a case of sanding the rust off off of somewhere?

Re: clutch drag

Rust and machine is not a good match .

Re: clutch drag

Alan Jackson /
IMG_7772best.JPG

yeah i guess your right

Re: clutch drag

But , talk about patina . ;)

Re: clutch drag

cool, i cant even see the nut that holds the clutch on, but its behind there? guarenteed it rusted behind there.

Re: clutch drag

Alan Jackson /

no nut just a circlip

Re: clutch drag

^ok, clip. ok, only u have the power.

Re: clutch drag

Wesley Ambrosini /

The tank is badass

Re: clutch drag

Ur single speed, no variator...ur clutch pads are stuck to the bell. Pull the clutch and break the pads loose, and clean up the bell with some steel wool.

Ur gonna want to look into crank seals too. In the near future anyway

Re: clutch drag

Alan Jackson /

ta for that aaron, ill have a look

yeah im amazed it runs re the crank seals

i have the luxury of 2 aml 50 motors and a rare aml 60 motor to play with and plan on rebuilding the aml 60 first for obvious reasons......

with new seals and rings and i might have a quick look at the porting ........

Re: clutch drag

Very difficult to see the parts break down in the English language manual, but the automatic clutch is similar to others. On the AML engines the single action clutch both shoes share the same anchor axle to pivot upon. Usually that is where they gum up with chlutch powder, old waxy grease and crap. Remove the pulley cartridge after taking off the truarc clip (careful of the individual needles for bearings) and the arms are in the cartridge. You will need to work the arms free with penetrating oil so they are free moving, then remove most of the oil so that there is none slopping around to foul the friction surfaces.

AML50singleclutch.jpg

The compound clutch used in theAML50/2 and the AML60 motors have the primary clutch on the outer housing, similar to the single clutch and share a single pivot. The drive clutch is contained on the clutch carrier half of the assembly 180 degrees separation. The bearings on the double are contained needle bearings so no need to chase after lost needles unless the shell is cracked or worn through on one end. Again you would need to clean the pivot points on the starter pair and each of the drive clutch shoes.

AML50clutch.jpg

Re: clutch drag

Alan Jackson /

cheers for that rebel, mine is an aml 50/2ive had the starter clutch apart a few times but never the main clutch if u know what i mean

Re: clutch drag

The double clutch is a vast improvement over the single action, so it must be a sticky arm issue on one of the sets - probably the unserviced main clutch set. If the springs are rusty they can be cleaned up with some chelation chemical such as Evaporust, the springs are not weakened unless the rust has progressed into pitting so best to clean them up chemically if they are just surface rusted.

> Alan Jackson Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> cheers for that rebel, mine is an aml 50/2ive had the starter clutch

> apart a few times but never the main clutch if u know what i mean

Re: clutch drag

Alan Jackson /

right i finally took mine apart and mine is the multimatic clutch that acts like a two speed clutch according to the manual

everything was free and working all springs functioning and i couldnt see why it would be dragging

its making a right tinging noise as if a little man has a tiny hammer and hitting the crankcase

BUT this is only at idle and when the back wheel is held still.

so its something on the starter clutch catching or trying to engage which can only be the arms.

the springs on the starter clutch are very weak so as to allow contact of the shoes/arms at slow speeds ie when trying to start and also when moving off.

the manual shows the profile of the linings on the clutch arms and mine are nothing like and i'm wondering if thats what the problem is.

i have two engines and all clutch linings are the same.

ill post pics in a few hours to show

Re: clutch drag

Alan Jackson /

just had an idea

the starter clutch has two arms

one makes contact when you pedal it to spin the motor

and the other "locking arm " makes contact as the engine is running so as to provide drive

im gonna remove the locking arm to see if that stops the clutch grab and then i know its probably the lining being wrong.

Re: clutch drag

Alan Jackson /

this is the bike making a right noise

[video]

[/video

the starter weight is making contact with the clutch and it should only do that by being flung out by centrifugal force.

theoretically at idle it should retract back and not make contact.

maybe i can file some of the lining off or fit a stronger spring.

or ]i might just put ducati stickers on it and say its just their usual noisy dry clutch racket.

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