Puch E50 bottom end rebuild - clutch side

Hello,

I just pulled apart and cleaned up the bottom end of a 1980 Puch Maxi E50 engine. I have two questions regarding the clutch side of the crank.

1. I cannot remove the brass bushing off the crank. It slides up and down a bit on the crank and rotates freely. Is it bad or too worn if I can't slide it off?

2. There is no slot on the crank for a woodruff key although the clutch is 2 shoe and there is a key way. Is it safe to reinstall without a woodruff key with a 2 shoe clutch?

Thanks for your help

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Re: Puch E50 bottom end rebuild - clutch side

very lightly sand (with fine grit) the lip of that circlip groove on the crank arm and the bushing will slide over it.

you do not need a woodruff key on the crank side since you're not indexing the clutch to the rotation of the crank. the taper will hold it on just fine when installed and torqued properly

Re: Puch E50 bottom end rebuild - clutch side

I double confirm this!

The clutch pads will never land on the same spot of the clutch bell every time so a key is pointless.

Re: Puch E50 bottom end rebuild - clutch side

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

mike nailed it. Although, DO be careful to only sand a little bit at a time. The helical cut teeth of the clutch bell actually forces the bell outwards toward that groove, the circlip holds it in. Over time, it will create a raised lip like you have, which will prevent the bushing from coming off. If you sand too much, the circlip may not be able to hold anymore because you are removing the metal that it sits against.

Re: Puch E50 bottom end rebuild - clutch side

do it faster and it should pop off.

Re: Puch E50 bottom end rebuild - clutch side

New meaning to "stroking a crank" ^^ :D

Re: Puch E50 bottom end rebuild - clutch side

Thanks for the help guys! Greatly appreciated

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