MOPED ARMY

I pulled the clutch cover off after draining, to begin inspecting that and uch to my surprise my brand new oil was fill with silver dust, which certainly sucks, but lead me to discover the source of my grinding/whirring noises.

Turns out the teeth on the clutch hub are wearing a bit badly. And at first, I couldn't see why that would be. It's on the drive side, but they meshed correctly?

Then, i noticed that the first pad had worn a VERY hard groove in the fingers of the hub.

This correlates to the short clutch throw, and lack of disengagement I was seeing before teardown, and also can point to the fact that if that first plate was locked in place, moving the clutch depressor might be pushing and pulling the bell against the primary gear, causing this wear.

Looking for opinions on this, as I have never had a shifter wear out a clutch hub like this. Not sure if removing material to resurface the fingers is an option, or if that will cause too much slack in the pads.

This application is definitely NOT high demand compared to most bikes. But good to know. I will clean up the fingers as needed.

My bigger concern is the wear on the main gear. I am hoping that the wear I see was caused by uneven/sticking clutch wear, but I am worried the mesh pattern is too rough. I'm not sure if cleaning them up with a file is advisable, or if it's a case of just leave it ?

Indeed - I would suggest to clean the teeth well, paint with a sharpie and go careful with a file to make sure you are just correcting the roughness and not the profile of the teeth.

Also might want to consider adding a rare earth magnet to the drainplug so you catch any future filings inside the casings.

There is a V good chance that it was run dry, at least a little bit before I got it. But I really can't say for sure. I filled with clean oil before I started, and it was noisy on first start up. But telling by the odd plate wear on the hub, that sounds pretty fair to say.

For now I will sharpie mesh the gears and clean up the hub fingers.

For sure.

I'm planning to get to work re-assembling this motor fairly soon, this quarantine also finds me trapped between this, a big wheel ciao project, a lambretta project, and selling a few bikes.

Should be able to resurrect the clutch basket and close up the trans next week.

That basket looks pretty good to me . Nice work . ;)

Was able to button up the transmission yesterday. Even just spinning by hand it feels WAY better.

I cut the cover gasket successfully on the first try, which even at this point in my moped experience feels real good.

I also got the stator mounted again, but I am waiting on a new top end before I can tackle timing.

I considered grabbing an inner rotor, just because they're great, but this points flywheel is easily 1/4 the weight of the standard AV7 Novi flyweights.

I'll update again once I start carving into the new top end to match the transfers.

I went with this cylinder which, while not designed for this specific application is pretty sick and doesn't require any stud spacing or stroke changes.

The only issue was that even the VERY large transfers on the kit are tiny compared to the ones in the case. I actually got pretty good at this after matching the kit to the massive transfers on my Vespino.

Basically the goal was to create a shallow trough to help pull charge into the transfers, not really going whole hog to create a cavern. Small round carbide to set the perimeter and end depth, than I chased that back into the transfers with a teardrop and spearpoint carbides, finished off with handfiles.

Moby was pretty consistent amongst their motors, which is convenient. I would have LOVED to have a LC moby cylinder, but obviously there are no LC moby kits with cylinder reeds.

The Moby cross comp issue is mostly the rectangular stud pattern and the odd stroke length.

But it was a choice between this (AV14) style kit, and the EW50 kit, which apparently doesn't make as much power. In retrospect, I probably should have grabbed them both just to see but didn't really want to have a spare kit.

Right now I'm working on tracking down correct reeds and an exhaust thread adapter.

By George I think it is.

REBEL YOU ARE A TREASURE.

Thank you!

Been working on this slowly, I'm working on making a reed spacer and then cutting the head to match the new displacement.

In the meantime, got the plastics mounted up and the fender repaired with a NOS Utah fender support.

Excited to see more of this, been awhile

SO nice indeed