76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /

Former parts bike I got to run, and trying to get it to run reliably. bike has no electrical. No ignition coil. previous owner put on some kind of treats cdi with no points. It does have a condenser. Ignition wired right into the magneto. Bike starts fine but idle screw does nothing. when I try to ride it, it cracks, pops, and dies with my best big 14mm carb and intake. found old picture of bike with performance pipe on it, so I believe the bike was tuned up. I am thinking timing is the next thing I should check. no blatant air leaks. I've never set timing on a bike before and don't have a piston stop. What would you check from easiest to hardest. will post video of bike running. this group is a great resource.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

hmm, condenser on a cdi strange.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

Overpriced Parts /

Probably a Treats points Stator if condenser

Post picture of insides

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /


76 maxi hi torque fly

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

No CDI .

Internal HT coil and point system .

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

Those internal coils are not the best quality. It might be an issue with that, but it sounds like the timing might be off a bit. I hope the previous owner grabbed the e50 rotor and not the za50 one. But get a timing tool and make sure your timing is set to 18 degrees before tdc for the stock bike.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /

Ok so timing? Starts easy and runs but no idle and no load without cracking and popping and death.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /

If finally have this thing a bit more dialed in. It turned out to be points.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

Dirty30 Dillon /

Yeah, it's obviously points with the bargain ignition setup. These are notoriously hit or miss. Gap your points and make sure all the hardware is tightened. They like to come loose

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /

What could I put in that would be more reliable? Just go back and make everything stock? I need to rewrite the whole bike for lights and switches.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

You can find a used stock stator and HT coil pretty easily. Order a 12v lighting coil and a few sets of Bosch points from Treats. Get an automotive condenser anywhere. Ditch the 6v headlight and brake light coils on the stator and replace with the 12v coil. If the cam nub thing on the points is worn down, replace with one of your new sets, using a ring connector to make replacement easier in 10 years. Wire the condenser outside the stator for the same reason. When you bolt this stuff down, use the same type of bolts for everything so you just need one tool instead of a flathead to gap the points, a phillips head to time your ignition, and an allen key to set the airgap.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

Overpriced Parts /

> mike houlihan Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> What could I put in that would be more reliable? Just go back and make

> everything stock? I need to rewrite the whole bike for lights and

> switches.

6 wire Stator Stator system if all in in good shape is almost bulletproof including the condenser, All my bikes still have them even though they're over 40 years old, I’ve changed the points on a few of them with nos points but otherwise no problems with condensers and lighting coils (edited)

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

The coils on those are great, the points and condensor are questionable at best. I’ve had those units toast the condensor in less than 50 miles so I just replace them with an auto zone one immediately. The points last a while, but Bosch are so much better than the crappy ones they put on there.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

Overpriced Parts /

> Daniel '' Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> The coils on those are great, the points and condensor are questionable

> at best. I’ve had those units toast the condensor in less than 50 miles

> so I just replace them with an auto zone one immediately. The points

> last a while, but Bosch are so much better than the crappy ones they put

> on there.

That’s probably where you live is a lot warmer where I live Maybe,

I’ve had probably 150 Bosch ignition’s Or more go through my hands and only a few condensers went bad In 40years but I don’t even know,

I just take out a Stator out and put another one in from my spares and go,

I test and repair them later With NOS parts,

I’m starting to get nervous now though because I have only one nos/oem Bosch condenser left

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

Pushrod Fifty /

The stock stator, set of cleaned original points, if they werent too pitted, and an external condenser is pretty much bulletproof.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /

Ah, so that's why there are three wires coming from the internal condenser? The black HT coil is under the flywheel? Really thinking this setup might be the source of my problems. Since the bike has no other electrical, the previous owner cheaped out instead of buying a new stator and ignition coil and wiring block. I am not clear that I can even put an external condenser on this bike and certainly can't do it without pulling the flywheel.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /

Pretty sure this is the exact stator plate that is on my bike, so it already is 12v. I saw a post on the Treats comments that 50% of the condensers on these fail. Anyone know where I can find the condenser that fits internal?

puch-E50-stator-plate-21.jpg

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

If you already have the flywheel off , why not simply install an external condenser ?

Bosch brand is best .

Buy one to fit a early 70s VW . Plenty of wire to work with and a good mount tab .

(edited)

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

Treats sells a screw-top condenser just like that, if that's the route you want to take. But, as everyone's noted, it'd be more convenient to buy an external condenser at some auto parts store and WAY more convenient to replace that external condenser when it eventually dies.

Wiring for this would go from internal HT to points, then from points out to terminal block, then plug the wire from your external condenser into that same or corresponding slot on the terminal block. Kill wire would go from one of these slots to the switch and then to ground.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /

thanks Chinatown. the bike came with no wiring block, so I have to sort that out. external sounds like the way to go. thank you for the wiring detail. i should probably get some oem points for it while I am at it.

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

mike houlihan /

@chinatown - would the kill be to a new port on the block? and could i run the kill ground from the block to the bolt where the external condenser is mounted?

Re: 76 maxi with 78-80 hi torque e50 snaps, crackles, and pops

Ok, so you have your ignition wire coming up from the stator. That wire goes into a slot on the terminal block. Each slot on the block is joined with the one right next to it. Like there’s metal in there that connects them.

Most basic kill switches have two wires. Put one wire into the slot next to the slot your stator is connected to. Ground the other wire is by attaching it anywhere on the frame where you can get a good clean connection with metal. The bolt holding the external condenser would be great — that’s actually the grounding point for the condenser itself. But remember, you’re running the kill switch wiring from the terminal block to the switch, and then from the switch to ground.

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