Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

Zackary Dunham /

Hi all,

At a loss here and don't know where else to turn other than here. So I recently picked up a peugeot 103 sp. Pretty much rebuilt the entire motor from scratch using 80cc parma case, 80cc parma kit, dopplar performance peugeot exhaust, hpi ignition, dopplar engine spring, dopplar er3 variator, dopplar reinforced belt, 15 Sha carb, 6 pedal Reed intake. So my problem is basically My variator will not work with me. It's stripped 5 clutch bells so far.like the d shape hole that goes over the shaft. I've tried removing material off of my starter clutch down to 30% still doesn't help. I've looked everywhere and can't find someone that has had this problem. I've also removed my kick stand because it was hitting my exhaust stopping my engine from swinging back but even after I removed that and try to run it and still seems to hit that variator so hard when it first comes on. Like it won't idle without my vari just engaging everytime and just destroying my clutch bell. Am I missing something obvious here? Any peugeot experts out there got any suggestions? Not really sure why my vari is acting so strange and not working with my engine properly. At this point I just wanna buy a new frame without this vari system it just seems like to much. But I would really like to figure this out. Help!!

Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

Too light of springs ?

Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

Zackary Dunham /

I have my engine spring tension set so it's uncompressed fully you think that's why? Do I need to tighten my spring up?

Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

I read your bio on here, I have more fun on my stock 103 than I did on my R6. Buy 10 mopeds instead of buying 1 R6, it's the better option for sure

Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

Surprised it stripping out the clutch bell. I had this issue once when I didn't have the stock variator assembly perfectly assembled and the clutch bell was not tight pressed tight enough onto the d shaped end of the crank. That misalignment caused the clutch bell to fail and the clutch to engage erratically and roughly. At this point is the mating surface of the crank still undamaged?

For clarification it sounds to me like you're describing the clutch engaging hard, not that the system is variating violently?

Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

Peter Turenne /

I am stuck I'm a similar situation helping someone with a bike they bought used. Its a parma kit on doppler cases with stock clutch and er3. It just tears through clutch bells. As much as i want to blame the stock clutch set up, the original owner screwed this bike up and lost some parts to the stock clutch so its been fun getting that back together. After modding the clutch by only adding 3 balls, removing pad material from the arms, and adding a second cross spring the balls seem to still dislodge the thrust pad in the back causing the balls to spill out in the clutch and lock up.

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Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

get the D washer that sits inboard of the bell (against the crank) bronze welded to the bell. this should increase the thrust surface area. never done it, but I think the theory is sound.

along with your power increase (this transmission was designed for <2 HP) aggressive clutch tuning and erratic throttle operation will also make this problem worse.

Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

> jumpsuit steve Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> get the D washer that sits inboard of the bell (against the crank)

> bronze welded to the bell. this should increase the thrust surface area.

> never done it, but I think the theory is sound.

>

> along with your power increase (this transmission was designed for <2

> HP) aggressive clutch tuning and erratic throttle operation will also

> make this problem worse.

The more i read this^ the better of a solution it sounds. Would also make lining in the clutch pack easier too for sandwiched install. But wouldnt welding give better hold?

Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

I like the idea of welding the Double D washer to the bell. just spot weld it very slow and cool it with a wet rag then add another spot weld and cool again.

Your goal is to not warp the center hole in relation to the outer run face.

Once it's bent or warped engagement will be jerky and cause the belt wo whip the motor against the variator spring. If you have some lighter weights for the variator add those to make the clutch slip more. Run 4-6 balls and one star spring. If your tearing out your double D you need to pull this horses head back for now.

You Dig?

Re: Peugeot 103 sp variator problems

> pat splat Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> The more i read this^ the better of a solution it sounds. Would also

> make lining in the clutch pack easier too for sandwiched install. But

> wouldnt welding give better hold?

I tend to use silicon bronze more than er70s in GTAW for motorcycle stuff. especially on thin wall tube, sheet metal, and if you can get a perimeter, it is plenty strong and sometimes stronger than the parent depending on thickness. less HAZ.

in this case, and thinking about it more, I would also consider fusion tacking the OD and ID and see what happens.

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