MOPED ARMY

I'm guessing you had/have an external condensor. Follow the wires to the HT coil, I'm sure you'll see it.

Looks like someone put an electrical capacitor inline. That would heat up and break down.

You can use any single wire condenser externally. Like for any car, and you can buy one from any auto parts store.

The wire needs to go to the positive on the coil (or spliced into the wire from the coil to the points.) And the body of the condenser needs to be grounded to the frame. Find one that has the little mounting bracket and attach that to the frame, that'll ground it.

Thats a 4 ohm white resistor not a capacitor. ^^^ Follow the black wire from the stator coils. Should go to high tension coil and then to an external condenser hidden somewhere. Here is what a stock set up looks like...

Live is right . That's a resistor , marked in Ohms . Ω

Capacitors are marked in Microfarads . µ

i always suspect that crank seal under that stator plate, change it out so the bike dont run lean. Dont be lazy, read how to wire a external condenser.

That would be an aftermarket condenser. The resistor is normally found behind the brake light bulb in the tail light housing. The purpose of the resistor is to keep the motor running when the brake light burns out. The high tension coil has a ground of its own that gets redirected through the brake bulb when you pull a brake lever. When that happens it lights the brake bulb. If the bulb is burned out the motor will die without that resistor acting as the third ground point. Electricity take the path of least resistance. I will post a wiring diagram after work to better explain all that.

The brake light switches are wired in "series" which means a straight line. Break or open either or both switches when you pull the lever and that ground point is broken. The next ground point is the route through the brake light bulb, which excites and there for illuminates. If the brake light bulb is burned out then the ground is found through the resistor. If you dont have the resistor then the motor will die if the brake light bulb is burned out while applying one or both brake levers.

That factory bulletin Evil posted is the best

Alright I finally have a chance to get back to you guys. Thanks for all the help.

Ok so here's a few images of the wiring from a different angle.

Looks like the in line capacitor (I'm assuming that's what it is) - aka shrink wrapped box with green cables - is going into the adjacent slot where the HT coil's positive goes in the junction box.

Meaning that in theory it would be wired correctly if it was an external condensor

So it seems to me someone attempted to use that as the condenser.

But there's something else weird going on here...

It looks like the resistor is wired straight to said capacitor (aka shrink wrapped box with green cables) as well as blue brake lines and then grounded by the white wire.

I will also post a few photos of the brake light.

Here's the brake light - dual bulb.

Looks like the grey ground wire is disconnected completely. Its folded back into the rubber on both ends. This would explain why the white ground wire is attached to blue brake wire - it is acting as a replacement to the original grey ground that should be attached to the brake light.

The green cable from capacitor (aka shrink wrapped box with green cables) in the previous photos is also attached to the white ground.

The green cable is grounded to the white because - unlike an external condenser with the mount acting as the ground - there is no built-in ground.

So just like previous suggestions all I need to do is disconnect the aftermarket capacitor (aka shrink wrapped box with green cables) completely and install the external condensor in the adjacent slot of the positive cable coming from the HT coil AND where the black cable goes to the strator.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm still quite new to this and you guys are really shedding light on a solution. Thank you very much.

Jeezus. If that was my bike, I'd rip out that rats nest and start over.

Kind of what I was suggesting. Put the wiring back like it is supposed to be and get the proper OEM tail light mounted to the rear fender . The proper Tail Light housing and bulbs are still around just shop on Buy/sell.

That aftermarket POS tail light that you have now will not have the correct bulbs to offer the proper resistance to keep the bike running. That is most certainly why the PO built that horrific looking rats nest.

None of that mess needs to be there.

Build it right the first time and you will learn so much about what the manufacturer has intended to be a long lasting trouble free system.

First before starting to back up the wiring to stock. Snip that resistor where it joins the two blue wires at that solder. Then use a clean bit of wire and ground the two blues to the engine case and then see how it runs. Doing this will bypass allll the brake light circuit and give you a clean ground for your ignition. if the bike still runs the same then you can start to look at points gap timing and general fuel/carb delivery for the cause of rough operation

Yup.

Here is the work g diagram grom the owners manual. It shows the resistor at the tail light and both brake light switches wired in series...

Thanks for the diagrams and explanation.

I will attempt to bypass the brake light today - been busy with family visiting the past few days - so I will post an update (with pics if need be) in a bit.