Folks having troubles on their Moby starter clutches.
First, scuff up the rubbing surface on the inside of the cover, flush with brake cleaner. Do same with the pads on the ends of the arms. This will deglaze the friction pair and ensure best grip in operation.
Second make sure there is friction material left on the starter arms. You can get new arms or you may want to epoxy new friction material to the arms. You would want soft or medium friction material so the pads will wear, not the rubbing surface of the cover.
Next step is to ensure the arms are free to move and only restriction is the spring rate. Disconnect the springs from the arms with needle nose pliers and make sure the arms are free to swing in and out. If no then use some penetrating oil and work the arms in and out until they are free moving. Then use brake cleaner and remove the penetrating oil. Otherwise the oil will chase out of the pivots and onto the clutch rubbing surface and make the clutch unreliable again.
On the earlier version, the starter clutches may still look serviceable, yet the friction material is worn to the point of no longer being able to make contact with the inside of the cover. Removing some of the material at the extension stops will allow the entire friction pad to be consumed on the clutches. Fully extend the arms and observe where the backs of the arms contact the stops on the clutch carrier. mark that point and remove about 1,5mm of material from that point.
Balancing the earlier version using the spring perches on the arms, there is low medium and high tensions. These tensions also relate to the rpm that the clutch will start to contact the clutch cover. You need to adjust so that when idling the clutches are not dragging unnecessarily on the cover, so start with medium (one inner one outer) and if it drags then go for heavy (outer and outer). Both springs need to be at the same setting, no mix and match.
Reworking for full use of material