Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

Hey y'all,

So, a friend and I recently rebuilt a an e50 engine for a poorly running 1978 Puch Maxi Sport. During the rebuild, we added a 70cc treats kit, but kept everything else stock. It was running (albeit poorly) before the rebuild but now... it will only start up. It will only idle when you give it gas, but will die as soon as you stop. It will not rev or... go anywhere.

Here's what we've done:

> adjusted the timing

> cleaning the carb

> upjetted to a 72

> set the needle lower and cleaned the carb again

> set the points with a feeler gauge

> gapped the spark plug

> double checked all the wiring was redone correctly

> cleaned the ground wires and where they connected

> cleaned the points with sandpaper

> confirmed the piston was installed correctly

> made sure the cylinder was in good shape and the head gasket was fitted properly

> checked that the manifold was attached correctly and that the carb was attached to the manifold

Yet, still not working. Adjusting the timing and the points literally did nothing--we tried both retarding it and advancing it, but absolutely no difference was made. Here's what we're thinking now:

Attaching the ground to the frame rather than the bolts to ignition coil

A new condenser

A different carb (maybe there's something gumming this up?)

I've done a google for similar probs and troubleshooting, but haven't found anyone's posts that directly mirrors the issue at hand. Any help would be appreciated!

Re: Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

Could be a lot of things...

Does it have spark? Compression? Fuel flow?

What size carb / atomizer are you using? which type needle, single line or double line? (edited)

Re: Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

Hi Mike!

Yes to the first four questions.

Running a 14 Bing. It has a stock atomizer. single line needle, I'm pretty sure.

Re: Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

Overpriced Parts /

The treats kit/kstar kit sucks beyond believe due to the prep you have to do to it!

You have to base space around 3 mm then deck or countersunk heat around 3mm you should read some of my posts,

you will have a complete mismatched set up as well as if you put it on a 40 year old unrebuilt engine That has bad seals/dried up seals good luck!

Timing comes before jetting So Read this:

https://mopedarmy.com/wiki/Puch_timing

and follow it to to the letter Because it’s a good start then read posts on jetting,

Puch mopeds Are The easiest engines in the world to work on yet the hardest because because people are hardheaded, Stuck in their ways and won’t listen to posts That are against their beliefs

Re: Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

Overpriced Parts /

> Ellie Hasken Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Hi Mike!

>

> Yes to the first four questions.

>

> Running a 14 Bing. It has a stock atomizer. single line needle, I'm

> pretty sure.

I hate when people say stock

stock for what?

There are several atomizer‘s that could be in the carburetor,

there are several jets,

there are several needles,

and dealers or people could’ve changed it before you got the bike,

post the Numbers or post a picture of the needle, carburetor intake everything because you live too far away for me

bring it over Here within an hour to your flying

But with so many variables like point setting and timing, leak down testing, every test that you’re not doing or saying you’re doing who knows how many other things your missing who knows

Re: Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

Probably needs a larger atomizer to be able to idle (at the very least,) like a 2.17. Take yours out (5mm socket will fit) and see what size it is.

Re: Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

Richard Eberline /

Ken and I wrote The Puch timing on Wiki awhile back. The timing has to be EXACT and not about or around or close to or close enough. Ken is the best carb tuners around.

See the slide mod, with the extra hole, for a better idle. timing first.

Re: Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

Dan (high idle) Conway /

> Richard Eberline Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Ken and I wrote The Puch timing on Wiki awhile back. The timing has to

> be EXACT and not about or around or close to or close enough. Ken is the

> best carb tuners around.

>

> See the slide mod, with the extra hole, for a better idle. timing first.

Don’t mind Kens attitude. He means well but he can’t help being a grinch to confused people. I’ve gotten my fair share, i’m sure I will again eventually.

Probably timing related. Check out travis tutorial on youtube he has a great video on quick timing setting for maxi.

Don’t mod the slide until it runs close to right, i’ve never had to do this. TCCD kits rock for what they are when paired with a fully rebuilt engine/ new crank. Use the LOW comp head and no need for a spacer that will change port timing (obviously check first but i’ve had 3 of these kits never needed it)

50mph is quite possible with the tccd/ right gearing, clean case match, chamfered ports

and even the tiny tecno boss pipe with high rpm grabbing stock 2 shoe clutch. I port matched/polished my kit to the intake/ pipe and only have a 15mm bing on there for touching 50mph.

This maxi i have has over 2,500 miles on it so far after the rebuild (9,000 total) and it’s my favorite bike. Never have to do anything but adjust the chain and such.

If you do everything right the first time, it saves you way more time and money, and you will enjoy yourself riding the moped a lot more knowing everything is up to date.

The boss pipe will be swapped in the future, but does great with the high rpm clutch and rotella oil in the trans (recommended by Graham) Haven’t had to change pads or fluid since it was built.

Good luck to ya, happy holidays

Re: Puch Maxi Sport has no power after rebuild and kit.

♣Slew Foot♣ /

Easiest engine to work on...

M48.

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