Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

Right!?! See my other post about my buddy being "gentle". :)

Thanks for the encouragement!

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

After letting the red loctite cure overnight, I was able to get this thing started in a few seconds by pedaling on the street. I rode it around the neighborhood at a very easy pace for a few blocks. Then I pulled over to see if my taillight and brake light were working. As I did, the engine died. I tried to pedal start again, but it would not fire. I got it back home, and checked on the clutch, thinking if that nut had came loose, maybe the starter clutch wasn't engaging as well. The nut and clutch looked fine, the loctite held.

I pulled the plug and had a nice, strong spark. I could see I had fuel in the filter. I tried starting again for awhile, but could not get it to fire.

This afternoon, I went back at it again, but decided to re-clean the carb. After disassembly, it looked good, but I hit the jets with a toothpick and carb cleaner anyway.

Clean carb made no difference. Engine will not fire. I temporarily deleted the decomp with a bolt incase it was leaking. Still no fire.

I pulled the reed valve, all looked good.

Reassembled again, many attempts later, no engine fire. I tried retarding timing, no change. Advanced, no change. It will not fire.

I ran the engine with a drill, no fire. I pulled the plug and ran with the drill and it did not seem like there was much fuel or vapor. The plug was damp when pulled.

My last resort was pedaling on the stand and trying to choke the engine with my hand. No engine fire. By this point, I was pretty exhausted and called it quits.

Also, about midway through this process, as I was pedaling hard, something would slip. I couldn't really see it well. Maybe the freewheel? Hopefully not the drive gear.

Any suggestions on what to try next?

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

I forgot to add…

Compression feels strong on my thumb.

Float bowl was full of fuel when I pulled it.

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

Did u lap the flywheel, sheared key maybe.

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

I did not lap the flywheel, but checked first thing this morning. Woodruff key still there.

I visually checked timing again. It seemed too far advanced. I loosened the stator and retarded as much as I could. It still looks like it's firing around 20-22 instead of 17. I'll get a timing light on it soon and extend the stator slots if needed.

I sprayed some fuel directly into the carb and upon turning it over, I could see vapor escaping from under the engine. I recalled the exhaust gasket being pretty sketchy on assembly, so I made a new one out of cardboard - I'll order a new one though. Engine still wouldn't fire.

I felt like although I had the decomp working better, I was still skeptical of it, so I bypassed again, and wedged a small screwdriver in the bracket so the tension would still engage the starter clutch. With the extra engine compression, I had to adjust the starter clutch engagement point. Once I did that, I tried push starting, since I was still getting that occasional skipping while pedaling. 20' down the road it fired once. Another 20' and I had it started.

I ran it down the block and realized I had not tightened the carb, so I circled back and took care of that. Tried starting again, and it fired quickly. I took it out for about a mile test ride and it did really well. I took it very easy, and the clutch behaved. Toward the end, I went about half throttle and hit 30 mph on the speedo quickly. This bike has way more power than my stock Moby 50V.

I'm stoked to have it running and riding again, and that the clutch is holding.

I've got new spark plug wire coming, and I'll need to order tires, tubes, and pedals. Maybe Dellorto jets too. There's a 104 in there now, but I have no idea what the engine wants.

In the meantime, I'll work on timing with a light, and tuning the carb as best I can.

Thanks for all the suggestions in this thread!

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

20-22 is fine, stock some were as much as 35 btdc to restrict it some

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

Wow! That’s good to know. I’ll get a timing light on it soon.

It’s been running pretty well. Clutch seems to be holding so far. I’ve had it up to 35 mph a few times. It gets there quickly. My tires are garbage, so I’m taking it easy for now, like mostly 20-25 mph max.

It’s idling okay, but a little rough. And it bogs a bit at 1/8th throttle, so I still have some tuning to do. The float bowl gasket isn’t great, and the throttle gasket on top of the PHBG is missing. I will get those ordered as soon as Treats has tires back in stock.

Oh, that skip while pedaling hard turned out to be the right side rear wheel nut coming loose. All good now.

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

Sounds like you need to check every nut and bolt before you go for your next ride...

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

I was riding home from work earlier in the week and noticed the carb was shaking pretty violently. Really, the engine and exhaust were too. It was bad enough that fuel was leaking at the carb, so I shut it down and pedaled the rest of the way.

Some searching lead me to believe the rubber motor mounts were the main factor. I was unable to find solid mount bushings to purchase, but I pieced enough information together to try to craft my own from a 7/8” acetal plastic rod.

Luckily, I have a spare set of cases since I bought that used engine which made mocking things up way easier. I rigged a way to Chuck the rod in a drill with a socket to grab the rod so I could sand down the OD enough that the rod would go into the engine mount hole, but be very snug. Then I cut the rod to length to make two long bushings for each engine mount hole. The most difficult part was drilling the holes in the rod. I clamped and eyeballed the center and did my best to keep the drill plumb. It worked, but a drill press would have been better.

I was going to drill the holes big enough for the original metal sleeves that are used with the rubber bushings, but I decided I wanted the bolt to squeeze on just the plastic, not the metal sleeve, to allow the plastic to absorb vibrations. I figured I have enough rod left to go the sleeve route if these don’t work, or don’t last.

The bushings were tight enough that I needed to tap in with a hammer, but not so tight I had to bludgeon them. Because my drilled holes were not perfectly centered, I had to pull the rear bushing out and rotate 180°, which got me lined up with the frame holes. Before I even put the nuts on the bolts, I could tell the engine was way more solid.

After getting the engine remounted, I decided to try and stabilize the carb on the rubber hose intake too. I trimmed the hose a little so the carb would sit more flush and further in. That helped, but I also installed a spring from the clamp on the shim to the bike frame.

I started it up and ran around the block. It felt way more solid and the engine shaking, and the carb shaking was far improved.

We’ll see how the acetal holds up without the sleeve, but so far I’m really liking how it’s working.

Re: Sachs Westlake 505 504 stripped crank threads clutch sode

Work in process… carb stabilizer springs.

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