MOPED ARMY

ah crap. looks like i should have had a plate that bolts to the case that the stator would then bolt to. that would have converted me from the 4 to the 3 bolt pattern. woops

I looked on the HPI website and based on the instructions yeah, it looks like there's supposed to be a plate that goes on first. Maybe you can contact them to get it? (edited)

http://mopedwizard.com/shop/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/1252.jpg

holy shit, look at that nut in your case. (edited)

Team Vespa Derek Wrote:

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didn't realize. Malossi wants you to run the bolts from the case out and i liked it better running them backwards. I belt the bolt head fits the case nicer

I got an internal rotor hpi on my race bike. When I get back in town I'll take some pics and post some info. I didn't machine the mounts, and I ended up not using the adapter plate either.the taper problem was my only real issue.

I'm gonna decide to risk it and run no fan. Even doing the Terry dean style fan, ain't gonna happen with the hpi spacing. Mines on a race bike so I'm hoping short run time should keep me out of the red zone.

made a little progress. i machined the center of the stator to clear the crank seal when i plunge the stator deeper into the case. then machined the rim off

the taper only really sits on about 3/4 of the rotor, so i took about 1/4" off of the bottom of the rotor's center section. i painted the crank to transfer to the rotor to make sure i wasn't cutting anything that was touching the crank

i think i'm going to make a small boring tool from 3/16 HSS to cut the taper. maybe this weekend

attached is my drawing of the issue last time i looked at this.

Bottom spacer plate is not required.

Push that shit out a tiny bit

It's not too late, that was a very similar idea to my backup plan actually, i just never bothered to make the fan since getting the HPI to work in the first place was such a disaster.

hpi is located in belgium

only an hour drive will check if they can offer baseplates and offer out off the box install/plug and play

with and engine in front off their noses it should be easier

Any progress?

Finally some progress. I opened up the frame to fit the Mini Rotor so it can be installed after the engine is fitted to the bike. This allowed me to run without a fan. It rips super hard after being able to adjust the timing. Unfortunately the aggressive timing and high compression are too much without a fan and it gets super hot.

I still need to cut the taper on the rotor to push it deeper on the crank. I'd like to be able to install the motor into the frame with the rotor already installed.

In the mean time, I drew up and 3D printed a fan to work with the stock fan shroud.

Going to try a simple PLA press fit fan for now. If my prints dont stand up to the heat and RPMs, I'll try cutting one out of aluminum. You can probably spot my base spacer in there too. Looking to bump around 2-3mm to drop compression and get the exhaust timing around 185 degrees.

Hey Marc. I’m running the 47mm DEPS kit. It ran pretty good on points, but there was a lot left on the table. I have mad respect for anyone running a water cooled setup, but that’s just not what I want for this bike. I want it to look more subtle than some of the other stuff I’ve built. I probably would have stuck to points except I love how HPI stuff build revs so damn fast.

Try number 3 fit pretty well. I wonder if it’ll explode at 8k rpm...

i dunno if you figured out the taper cutting thing or not yet but this is how my toolmaker buddy taught me to do it

#1- put the crankshaft in the lathe in a 4-jaw so you can true that fucker up to the .0001 in terms of runout, put a dial indicator in the actual tool holder of the lathe, like, clamp it in where you would put the cutter, measure the runout at the taper itself, because even the best crank ever won't be that perfecto. when i do them, i will use a sacrificial crank and just bash it into place with a hammer. never done a vespa but with puch and tomos i clamp to the opposite side bearing race.

#2- now you loosen up the cross slide and get the angle close. snug it down a lil' bit and run the dial indicator across the taper. at this point i use a tiny hammer or usually the wrnch from the tool holder to just tap it back and forth while running the cross slide in and out across the taper. obviously you're going to go back and forth and you want the indicator to stay at '0' +/- .0002 or so. Then you rotate the crank like 90 degrees a couple times and repeat. Usually the tapers have some surface roughness so you'll never get it perfect but you get a good feel pretty quick for getting that cross slide dialed in on the the fuckin nuts. once the crossslide is tracking the taper perfect, tighten it down, check again, and remove the crank

#3- put the rotor in the 4-jaw, true that fucker up on the inner surface- this way you keep the factory balance. Take the dial indicator out and put a boring bar in the tool holder. cut the taper to whatever size you need. I usually figure what the smallest diameter will be and use a pin-gauge to guess and check but if you have a DRO or some fancy shit you can probably just get it right on that way. the actual bore diameter is probably only +/- .005 because you can shim your variator out to whatever you want by putting a shim between the flywheel and vari.

this is how i've done it for putting different-taper stators on different cranks.