Lots of math this morning
TLDR = after lots of number crunching, this kit will want 2.4mm BTDC when the timing marks align (if they were still there) and I have a plan of how to set the timing
I looked up the static timing suggestion from the Malossi manual for the DEPS kit and they like 19 deg BTDC
Next step was to try to graph (as best I can from the low res HPI picture) what the curve is on the Mini Rotor. My RPM will likely top out around 10k the way I'm setting this guy up. I took an average from 0-10k rpm and it was 19.5 deg BTDC. I then shifted the HPI curve -.5 deg to approximate the best timing curve for this cylinder.
The HPI firing marks (if i still had them) align at max advance which with my adjusted curve is 24.5 deg BTDC. Using 86mm conrod length and 43mm stroke, the piston should be 2.4mm BTDC at 24.5 degrees BTDC.
So I didn't really learn anything except the "Set the firing mark at 2.5mm BTDC" is damn good advice. - no surprise there..
Now to set timing without timing marks..
I now have my power drill set in low RPM mode with a fresh high capacity battery so hopefully the increased torque will more accurately hold it's max RPM (600). I've now marked the 600 RPM firing mark on the case. Next step is to find out where the crank shaft should be at 600 RPM.
I expanded my graph to show better what's going on from 0-1000 RPM. It looks like 600 RPM is dead on 17.5 deg BTDC
After some lunch, I'm gunna hold the rotor at it's 600 RPM firing mark and rotate the crank until it's at 17.5 degrees BTDC. That should get me timed exactly on the money. I'll then make a baseline timing mark on the rotor with the tool I made yesterday. I'll just make some index marks from there +/- and I think I'll be able to make adjustments without even removing the motor from the frame.
Sorry if this shiz is drawn out and boring, but it helps with my thought process to type it all out