Hahaha, you so crazy.
Also, I did wind up cutting the angled guides, and am pleased with the results. I did a very quick comparison on my bolt-on-upgrades bike, and it does seem a tad easier to keep the angled-pulley in the band. The most notable difference (as one might expect) comes when you blast from dead-stop to balls-upon-walls (a mighty 40mph on my beater-bike :D ), then settle down to cruise; definitely less of the CVT-gone-wild feel near the top, and on deceleration. Not that it's unmanageable sans the angle - though it sounds a lot easier on the engine than the straight-cut.
Things to note if you try this: 1. The steel that needs to be cut is hardened; take your time. Wear gloves. Clean up using the magnet / sheet-o-paper trick. 2. Precision is important (i.e. the guides must always be parallel); I used a lathe to trace the pattern before cutting with a drill press + rotary tool. If you don't have access to such equipment, maybe look at the GY6 option CW mentioned above (in fact, look at it regardless - it'll get you to the same place with a lot less pain).
Finally, for those interested, I used a consistent (i.e. straight) 38 degree angle. Cutting a dual-angle set-up was tempting, but didn't want to risk error. I also angled the cuts in the same direction as Malossi and every other manufacturer (i.e. so that the movable face turns in the direction of motion when contracting). I'm curious as to whether this makes a difference.