Oh my goodness.
The BEST ramp plate I've ever used.
Don't love the name, but that's ok.
What's in a name when the function is incredible.
Fits hobbit hub perfectly.
Allows a very very weak spring in the rear pulley WITHOUT dropping rpms at all, even with race gears.
I was cruising at 60 this weekend at 1/8 throttle. Wtf?
Amazing.
Cannot say enough about this.
I have one in my basket ordering it today.
"Ripper" is a better name for it.
Haha "superplate"?
> JBOT Admin Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> "Ripper" is a better name for it.
>
> Haha "superplate"?
Supeplat as in you've been served.......
What type/how heavy are the weights you're using Jbot?
I'm running 12g total, 3x4g
With the weakest scooter contra I could find.
Puts my rpm at full throttle around 10.5k, I can crack the throttle to maintain about 8.5k for cruising once at speed.
Running a mildly ported dr kit, with transfer bases opened up full size, and matched to cases, all the boost bridges removed inside the boost port to be one big port, a V reed block with a 24mm carb.
It's amazing what most standard kits can do if you get rid of all their bottlenecks with barely touching the ports at all.
the fit on the bell makes it a candidate for part of the year alone.
They did it right. Period
Now I'm impatiently waiting for mine to arrive.
If Benji at treats would just make one of these secondary pulley shelves with the three sets of angled slots for my cameo contre assembly.
Guessing the AL models were prototypes. Are they collectable memorabilia now? Can't wait to try the steel version with truly centered fit. CNC machined curve vs stamped plate is a giant leap forward.. Thanks TJT/Treats!
Stamped or Cnc, if the curves are the same it doesn't matter how it's made.
They will be stamped in the future for cost savings I bet and it should perform exactly the same
> JBOT Admin Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Stamped or Cnc, if the curves are the same it doesn't matter how it's
> made.
>
> They will be stamped in the future for cost savings I bet and it should
> perform exactly the same
Yes they will perform the same as long as everything is nice and smooth the nice thing about the CNC is just a couple of buttons and you can change the radius angle once the mill is set up and running in index.
And just a question for the masses out there to verify what we're doing.
You're using the 13 mm rollers on a modified t j t so they don't rattle around and you get the full ramp not just the last two thirds with the smaller rollers.
To modify you cut the center down so that the plate will sit deeper in the T J T.
I'm running a BX belt with the teeth ground down to the radius in The Notches that way I can get the belt way down in the front pulley for better take off from a stop and speed on super steep hills.
If I remember right I cut it down approximately 2 mm it might have been three can't remember.
CW (edited)
Oh that's why your bike is slow wayne.
Ditch that modded bx. Worst shifting ever. THA WORST
Either get the stocker Mitsuboshi from treats or endurance or get a half inch belt and run race gears. 16mm is too wide to shift right.
Only time a bx MIGHT be ok is if you're making insane hp with a 8k+ stall and even then it would still suck shitty balls (edited)
I took a bx down to 8mm thick, still sucked
Ha ha
I have some of the stock original Mitsubishi belts one of them is in total Mint Condition I play with them back and forth but I really like writing steep Hills like in Oakland.
Most of my speed issue is the fact cheetah Chrome didn't put the shim under the Athena cylinder Hi's porting well I don't want to go there.
And I need to shorten my exhaust another inch.
I've got the shim in there and cleaned up the porting some but she'll do 60 plus no problem which is plenty fast I don't need to kill myself.
I'm actually waiting for some fan belts to show up that I ordered.
And it looks like I should have my parts from treats tomorrow morning if not this afternoon.
Another thing that was making the bikes low was the cold weather and not having a retarding CDI box on it I'm switching over to the HPI this weekend so having the retarding timing will put more heat in the pipe and I have proper blow down now so it should run pretty good.
They have me loading trucks today at work been doing that the last few weeks now they're all stuck in traffic so it's been giving me a lot of time to troll this place.
Getting very close on the four-stage system right now I had to cut and reweld my Miss calculated my offset but I've got it straightened out now just got to have time to tune everything in I'm kind of excited if you know what I mean.
Well it looks like I got to go I got like 8 trucks in a row showing up it's funny how they can all leave 3 / 5 minutes apart but they all show up at the same time when they need another round.
CW (edited)
> JBOT Admin Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Stamped or Cnc, if the curves are the same it doesn't matter how it's
> made.
>
> They will be stamped in the future for cost savings I bet and it should
> perform exactly the same
Gotta disagree on that one. The stamped version is a linear (45 degree angle?) ramp. CNC machining allows a variation.. heh heh.. of the resistance along the plate travel that will have a different effect on the "shift curve" IMO... It's almost a french curve.. kind of like the original plates.. starting with a large, flat radius and transitioning to a steeper response as the rollers travel out with greater force, which is probably why it works well with weaker springs?? No complaints on the CNC'd price at $40! I like the 18 x 14s for accel + full variation but they aren't readily available in a wide range of weights like the 16 x 13s. :( (edited)
You can stamp a curve.
Yes the stamping molds are made with CNC equipment so you can pretty much stamp out whatever you need is long as you don't tear the material your stamping.
Lol, didn't even need to reply
UH.. the first ones were stamped. No contention there.. lol
Just glad to see CAD/CAM used to address and improve the variators.
Yeah, never liked the way the BX belts work on hobbits. I much prefer the Endurance, as every Mitsuboshi belt I've found has been out of spec length
I actually have some belts coming from this particular manufacturer they will actually make the belts to your exact specification but you have to place a fairly large order but they had a few samples around and break it and send me a couple I will get back to everyone later on how they performed but you're welcome to contact them this is their link.
on the topic of belts, i came across this on the moped reddit. but you know, its reddit so maybe their info is suspect:
"$3.99 (+tax) bargain at AutoZone! For all you PA50ii owners out there, get this belt if you need a cheap replacement! (maybe the PA50/Hobbit/Camino as well, don’t have any to try.) So far it works like a charm AND has teeth!"
but for $3.99 itll prolly get you home if your belt ever disintegrated on a ride.
It's a lil over 1/2inch belt.
I personally love 1/2in belts on hobbits if you know how to tune for them and shim the vari & mod the rear to close completely.
But if you want the best 1/2incher,
Get a dayco top cog, same number I think. The cogs are on top for flexibility and they just last and last and last
17425 =42.5in
17420 =42in
Ax/bx40 =42in (edited)
Well I just went to the post office to pick mine up it arrived in my box at 7:15 this morning treats shipping is getting to be a little slow it took 56 hours and 27 minutes for my part to arrive I thought they would be a little faster with their new location.... Oh yeah treats had a big sale nevermind.
I picked up a set of new guides for it and they fit perfect the ramps aren't super polished but I will hit them with a little Dremel buffer before I install here's some pictures it looks like they did some awesome work on the Machining good job Benji.
> Neil Rayborn Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> >
> They did some awesome work on the Machining good job Benji.
Benji personally crafts each one by hand
No he lays them like eggs out of his cloaca
I'm just waiting for the Cox Brothers to chime in and tell us that we need to hit it with a hammer to flatten it out so it will stick and roll and stick and roll giving us three shifts too make a Stock Hobbit go 90 miles an hour.
> Emil Kniemel Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> on the topic of belts, i came across this on the moped reddit. but you
> know, its reddit so maybe their info is suspect:
>
> "$3.99 (+tax) bargain at AutoZone! For all you PA50ii owners out there,
> get this belt if you need a cheap replacement! (maybe the
> PA50/Hobbit/Camino as well, don’t have any to try.) So far it works like
> a charm AND has teeth!"
>
>
> but for $3.99 itll prolly get you home if your belt ever disintegrated
> on a ride.
These work pretty good on vespas too. I ran a 17425 with 108mm cheeks for a while; i think the motor was all the way forward.
They are actually 17/32" belts so they make a good bridge between the AX and BX profile belts.
They are the same width as the vespa malossi belts (13.4m) but are a little bit taller. They would wear out fast and make for hard starting after 150 miles or so. $4 tho so whatever.
I did get a top cog variant once and it seemed to last a little longer and everyone will tell you the belt is inside out.
You can shim the variator from behind to snug up the belt once worn. Cut a washer out of an oil bottle and float on the hub before bolting the ramp plate on.
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