MOPED ARMY

The main being drilled out would explain why I have been able to get away with such a lean jet. Yes, the exhaust is a technigas.

Do you think I should start with a 100 and work my way down after I finish the rebuild? Or should I start lower? I ordered a trail tech vapor with a temp sensor so I should be able to keep an eye on the temps.

I am trying to go all out with this build.

Probably going to want a w7 needle but w9 should be able to get you in the ball park.

Yea start high then work your way down. Not going to hurt anything running a fat main jet.

Those metal disk will make your bike run lean! Make sure you have the correct bushing and its facing the correct direction.

These carbs can be confusing so you should really start at a good base.

https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/How_To_Tune_PHBG_Carburetors#Out_of_the_Package

I'm think you need a number #40 slide btw

Crazy Wayne is there to hold your hand & tell you exactly how to install the bushing.

When you search phbg on google the first thing to pop up is the mopedarmy.com tuning page,probably has been open more then the float bowl. (edited)

Idle jet is probably somewhere in between 40 and 50 and your choke jet is always 60!!!!

45 seems like a good start but if you have the money I would definitely buy more sizes like 42,48,50

That would make sense to have a richer needle. Because when I am at WOT (even though the slide isnt all the way up with the stock throttle) and i let off the throttle after being at wot and then i try to give it half throttle while the rpm is still high it bogs. Then I have to crank it all the way open to get it to go again. That means the needle is to lean to keep up with the main jet right after WOT right?

Ok, so do you think the symptoms I described are a result of having a needle that is too rich? The W9 needle in my carb was set to the very bottom notch.

When I put in the W7, should I start out at the middle clip notch with a really fat main jet?

W9 has a leaner taper. You can tell it is fatter in the picture. I get a better tune out of a W9 then a W7. W7 seems to sometimes have a lean spot on the transition from pilot to main. So you can be rich on idle and rich on main, but get a lean spot on the transition. It always seems like when I am doing a group ride that is always my throttle position.

i think both you guys know what you are trying to say but the way you are saying it is somewhat confusing

the w7 needle has the transition point lower than the w9 so it adds needle jet fuel mix at a larger throttle opening.

if you go back and look at the chart of what tuning parts are affecting what range of throttle opening- the 'straight shaft' portion of the needle blocks almost all of the fuel flow through the needle jet orifice until the taper kicks in. Up until the throttle is open on that taper, all the fuel flow is coming through the pilot jet, via the atomiser holes and being controlled by the air bleed screw.

once the slide is up far enough to hit the taper portion, it opens up that needle jet orifice and fuel begins to flow.

if you are getting a dead spot before it hits the transition point- like eric is talking about- you can go from the W7 to the W9 and it will add more fuel. or vise versa if it is kicking in too soon.

it all depends on how progressive your setup is and the airflow for a relative carb size. Get your pilot jet adjustment as good as you can for the 0-1/3 throttle condition, then adjust your needle jet to start kicking in. If you have a smaller carb you'll be getting a stronger pressure signal whereas a larger carb wont get as strong of a pressure signal (which pulls fuel from the pilot jet) and might need more flow being added mechanically from the needle.

Lots of bikes that other people have tuned that i ride have this screwed up, Eric is dead on when you are riding with a group and trying to modulate throttle, this will drive you crazy if you dont get it nailed down.

I appreciate the detail on the needles! That info will be useful for diagnosing problems when I complete the rebuild. I want it to be really dialed in.

Do any of you guys know what this amber build up is on my case?

I am tempted to just chip it out but it crossed my mind that it looks like some kind of epoxy? Maybe placed there on purpose? It doesn't really look like carbon build up.

I totally agree with Mike^ .

If it does need build up there , you might try alumiweld .

https://www.alumiweld.com

Amazon or Harbor Freight .

Damn this rebuild is turning into a nightmare. I really want to find whoever built this hack job.

If I remove it and try to replace it with alumiweld, do you have any tips for getting it to match the transfers? Are there any tricks that people use to line things up?

those are A55 cases not A35, which is good. you have more sealing area around the ports.

get rid of that epoxy junk, if the case transfers are bigger it wont matter

its a moped, don't overthink it.

I will snap some pictures when I get home.