i think both you guys know what you are trying to say but the way you are saying it is somewhat confusing
the w7 needle has the transition point lower than the w9 so it adds needle jet fuel mix at a larger throttle opening.
if you go back and look at the chart of what tuning parts are affecting what range of throttle opening- the 'straight shaft' portion of the needle blocks almost all of the fuel flow through the needle jet orifice until the taper kicks in. Up until the throttle is open on that taper, all the fuel flow is coming through the pilot jet, via the atomiser holes and being controlled by the air bleed screw.
once the slide is up far enough to hit the taper portion, it opens up that needle jet orifice and fuel begins to flow.
if you are getting a dead spot before it hits the transition point- like eric is talking about- you can go from the W7 to the W9 and it will add more fuel. or vise versa if it is kicking in too soon.
it all depends on how progressive your setup is and the airflow for a relative carb size. Get your pilot jet adjustment as good as you can for the 0-1/3 throttle condition, then adjust your needle jet to start kicking in. If you have a smaller carb you'll be getting a stronger pressure signal whereas a larger carb wont get as strong of a pressure signal (which pulls fuel from the pilot jet) and might need more flow being added mechanically from the needle.
Lots of bikes that other people have tuned that i ride have this screwed up, Eric is dead on when you are riding with a group and trying to modulate throttle, this will drive you crazy if you dont get it nailed down.