MOPED ARMY

This week I Kreem'd my tank cause I had a couple of pin holes. Overall I wouldn't recommend Kreem, like many others on the internet have already said. I feel like it isn't going to hold for that long, the coating came out really thin no matter what I did. I think this will especially be a problem with the pitting present in the tank. I only used Kreem because a buddy got a random package delivered to his house (addressed to him) with all sorts of dirtbike shit and Kreem that he didn't want.

I also got an RD80LC exhaust from eBay, there's a couple German sellers on there with them. All in all it was like $180 shipped from Germany and took a week to get here. Seems like the power band hits a little lower now, closer to 7500 RPM (thank God), and the red line is like 13-13.5k rpm. It's definitely got some more torque now as well.

As you can see in the picture my dumb ass zip-tied the exhaust to the swingarm which resulted in several snapped zip ties until I realized why it wouldn't work. I have it zip tied to the frame now until I make a bracket. The zip ties work pretty well though.

I have a cylinder coming in that I haven't seen anyone talk about anywhere except Portuguese forums. No idea when it's gonna be here, but it's an Athena 80 kit, listed on the Athena site as fitting a DT50/YSR so it should work. Worst case scenario it's a DT80 stroke kit and I have to swap cranks. But I did the math and with the stock DT50 stroke it's like 77cc, so I have high hopes it'll fit.

Nice! My first bike over 50cc was a 1982 Yamaha XT250. I loved that thing, been trying to find an XT again but no such luck so far

Athena 80 kit won’t work on a 50 without some finesse. You have to bore the cases and fit the long stroke crank to get it to work. Rd80 pipe honestly kinda sucks. Just get a stock over bore go back to the stock pipe and enjoy it being slow. It’s never gonna rip.

The Portuguese rippers are all on the 100cc kits. It looks like fun, but honestly with how much work and money it is to get there it’s not worth it. Get a yz80 if you wanna go too fast on a dt50 or go for a derbi senda engine if you want to have something more reliable.

Well the Kreem lasted a whopping 2 months. Went riding today and smelled gas the whole time. One of the pinholes is leaking again, womp womp. Also, the kit I ordered on Amazon isn't coming so that's sick. Not sure what the next move is gonna be, I have a YSR I bought in parts I gotta assemble so for now I guess the DT stays stock except for the gearing/pipe

anything with actual break-through pin holes, the easiest way to fix it is brazing it. sealers won't hold once its broke through no matter what

i dunno i avoid all that shit, i do a muriatic acid soak using a rubbermaid with like 1" in the bottom to really burn it all out good, then i strip the paint in the affected area, then a couple rinses, then braze it, coat the inside with half gas half oil mix, sand, bondo, sand, primer, paint.

i've saved some pretty gnarly shit. This ninja 250 had like 1/4" rust holes that i had to weld roofing nails to close up, someone had tried a bad JB weld and bondo job on it and it was all smashed up. When i was done you could definitely tell it had been patched, but it didn't leak and got the jerb done. More time with the bondo and i could have made it nice but it was a $200 commuter/beater bike so who cares.

yeah, when i first got into vintage moto stuff it was 2004 right after ethanol gas came out, kreem version 1.0 was not ethanol safe because the people that originally came up with it never anticipated anyone doing something so stupid as putting ethanol in gas.

well, for a few years there, motorcycle tanks that had been 'kreemed' 10,20 years ago were all turning into snot, people would go out to the garage to get their bike ready for summer and the carb would be disintegrating and the tank would be full of the nastiest shit you've ever seen, and i would buy CB350's, CB750's, etc. all day long for 100 or 200 bucks, you couldn't give the things away. my buddy was a tow truck driver and he was picking them up 3 or 4 at a time. If i had a dollar for every $400 mint condition RD350 or CB750 i passed up back then, i could almost afford one now.

so... ever since then i've just got a real bad taste in my mouth for any of the 'goop' type sealers.

I do most of my refinishing with catalyzed urethane single stage auto paint, its relatively cheap, it sprays on super nice, and its fuel resistant, basically fuel proof. You do need a good air compressor with filter, drier, and a HVLP type spray gun.

My buddy maize builds some of the nicest bikes around, he does a base coat using high end rattle can, then clears over it with spraymax 2k clear (which is a rattle-can catalyzed urethane clear) the finish is top notch pro auto body grade and it can all be done by an average guy in a garage with no tools.

Powder coat doesn't melt from gas exposure but it can get chalky or change the finish if its a matte finish. Personally, i don't like powdercoat because you have to strip down to bare metal and you cant bondo, but it is tough as nails. Its great for stuff where you just want it to look 'pretty good' and not get scratched... like mopeds... but its more cost/work and its something that you gotta send out