first za, be gentle

bone stock za50

12 intake

12bing

58 jet

full airbox (all 5 screens)

stock magnum exhaust

(everythings been douched, flushed, cleaned out, and shiny)

im getting 25mph, 30 downhill...it sucks ass

question is, if i just step up to a 14 intake/bing will the stock exhaust be ok? and if not, anyone have a bolt on magnum exhaust not designed for a big kit?

im not splitting cases and flipping gears as this is a minimal use bike but i just need it a tad faster than a 10speed bike ffs

Re: first za, be gentle

heres the guy im thinking of pairing with the 14intake/bing

Screenshot_20190826-165649_SamsungInternet.jpg

Re: first za, be gentle

haven't run one but everyone who i've talked to has been underwhelmed

i like the proma GP on that setup

you gotta cut and weld it on a ZA, but you should really do that with any pipe

Re: first za, be gentle

yeah, that seems to be the consensus

i should just get another za to play with and resist the urge to tear this thing apart

Re: first za, be gentle

Frank Bailey (MOPITT) /

Go with the Estoril pipe (heat and bend to fit) and maybe go to a 14mm Bing with a free flow filter. Do what you want, you can always return to stock. Others will chime in but they'll just show you a video of how fast theirs is without telling you how...

Re: first za, be gentle

'tanks fellers!

Re: first za, be gentle

Are you opposed to porting poopy?

Honestly, might be better to grab another za. Because pucks are gonna be shot and your gonna snap the shaft in there when they let go. Also, ur gonna want a flipped clutch..

Re: first za, be gentle

I just put one of those pipes on mine, new piston rings, 15 polini and I’m getting high 30s

Re: first za, be gentle

Have you already changed the shift pucks?

Have you already removed the flywheel to clean and lube points cam, cleaned and adjusted points and timing?

Re: first za, be gentle

Overpriced Parts /

Metal mesh filter, I use the large $13 tomos one (but with the 4.99$ small snorkel from the puch bing filter connected to it )

AABF1A11-C3BD-47AC-9B37-E225ABAD8632.jpeg

https://www.treatland.tv/bing-air-filter-rubber-p/puch-bing-filter-rubber.htm

With a few flattened spots so it fits under the chain cover,

(I think on eBay you could find one that already has the small rubber part connected to large filter)

Put a 5/16 or so hole way down on the inside of the chamber and one more in the end cap (they could be closed later with a large self tapping screw).

E2109198-BAB3-46DB-8801-8BDE7BEFB960.jpeg
1B166C45-7D8C-4F46-8BF2-1C2BB4A13E21.jpeg

You could also post for a stock header on buy+sell and then get the $35 chamber from treats but you will have to bend the stock header a bit and make a bracket, clamp and everything for it to fit,

(treats also has a mlm circuit magnum pipe But it’s fit was so far off that you have to enlarge the header holes, right hand side nut will not fit so you have to use an Allen, you got to bend stinger, mod the bracket, nothing lined up it’s was miserable ! (I’m gonna do a post on that pipe in the future)

I open up the stock 12 mm intake a mm or two with a Dremel with bits and sandpaper rolls taking my time but keep the oil injection nipple on,

I sand down a magnum head pretty much almost flat, taking my time removing 3/4 of the material with a belt sander then and finishing by hand with 400 then 800-1,000 grit sandpaper on a very flat surface,

I upjet from the 60 jet and 212a atomizer that most magnum MKII come with stock but sometimes the 60 jet works,

I completely service the magneto like from here :

https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Puch_timing and if using the stock exhaust I use least 18° timing if not more,

I don’t split the cases but I do remove the clutch cover using a rubber mallet/glancing blow’s (remove stand spring first) and change out the pucks/shift dampeners and flip the second gear clutch,

I don’t bang on the crank to rebend the locking washer/plate to the clutch nut when done with a hammer I use pliers,

This is what Ya get When done:

It’s a lot less work than it sounds like and you could do part at a time like just do the filter carb and pipe modifications but I do recommend new shift dampeners and a za50 without a flipped 2nd gear clutch is like having a 700 hp car with a low 1,000 RPM stall torque converter and no full or part throttle kickdown lever connected,

Re: first za, be gentle

oh yeah, been extra careful too

(didnt do pucks yet tho)

right music, right strain, zen'd out and forced myself to go slow and take my time as opposed to how i usually work (doing 4 things at once and shit gets thrown around like the tazmanian devil)

lol, its so funny man, im legit nervous to fuck with this thing

> live ɘvil Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Have you already changed the shift pucks?

>

> Have you already removed the flywheel to clean and lube points cam,

> cleaned and adjusted points and timing?

Re: first za, be gentle

THIS is why I love Ken

he puts up with me, i put up with him

bust balls, TYPE IN ALL CAPS

but at the end of the day, he's so god damn valuable to this hobby, i cant help but love him.

...Don on the other hand. ;-)

> Overpriced Parts Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Metal mesh filter, I use the large $13 tomos one (but with the 4.99$

> small snorkel from the puch bing filter connected to it )

>

> https://www.treatland.tv/bing-air-filter-rubber-p/puch-bing-filter-rubber.htm

>

> With a few flattened spots so it fits under the chain cover,

>

> (I think on eBay you could find one that already has the small rubber

> r part connected to large filter)

>

> Put a 5/16 or so hole way down on the inside of the chamber and one more

> in the end cap (they could be closed later with a large self tapping

> screw).

>

> You could also post for a stock header on buy+sell and then get the $35

> 5 chamber from treats but you will have to bend the stock header a bit

> and make a bracket, clamp and everything for it to fit,

>

> (treats also has a mlm circuit magnum pipe But it’s fit was so far off

> ff that you have to enlarge the header holes, right hand side nut will

> not fit so you have to use an Allen, you got to bend stinger, mod the

> bracket, nothing lined up it’s was miserable ! (I’m gonna do a post on

> that pipe in the future)

>

> I open up the stock 12 mm intake a mm or two with a Dremel with bits and

> sandpaper rolls taking my time but keep the oil injection nipple on,

>

> I sand down a magnum head pretty much almost flat, taking my time

> e removing 3/4 of the material with a belt sander then and finishing by

> hand with 400 then 800-1,000 grit sandpaper on a very flat surface,

>

> I upjet from the 60 jet and 212a atomizer that most magnum MKII come

> with stock but sometimes the 60 jet works,

>

> I completely service the magneto like from here :

>

> https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Puch_timing and if using the stock

> exhaust I use least 18° timing if not more,

>

>

>

> I don’t split the cases but I do remove the clutch cover using a rubber

> r mallet/glancing blow’s (remove stand spring first) and change out the

> pucks/shift dampeners and flip the second gear clutch,

>

> I don’t bang on the crank to rebend the locking washer/plate to the

> clutch nut when done with a hammer I use pliers,

>

> This is what Ya get When done:

>

>

>

> It’s a lot less work than it sounds like and you could do part at a

> a time like just do the filter carb and pipe modifications but I do

> recommend new shift dampeners and a za50 without a flipped 2nd gear

> clutch is like having a 700 hp car with a low 1,000 RPM stall torque

> converter and no full or part throttle kickdown lever connected,

Re: first za, be gentle

Frank Bailey (MOPITT) /

Good info Ken! Thanks.

Re: first za, be gentle

What do you mean by "I sand down a magnum head pretty much almost flat, taking my time removing 3/4 of the material with a belt sander then and finishing by hand with 400 then 800-1,000 grit sandpaper on a very flat surface,"

Are you removing from the piston side to increase compression?

What's the difference between the Magnum head and a Maxi Sport ZA high compression head?

Re: first za, be gentle

Overpriced Parts /

> Lee Snover Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

>

> Are you removing from the piston side to increase compression?

>

> What's the difference between the Magnum head and a Maxi Sport ZA high

> compression head?

No such thing as a maxi sport compression head, it’s a hi torque head not hi compression,

There no other place you could sand down the head except for piston side,

I sand down, polish and reshaping maxi heads too Like the same with with magnum head then it’s higher compression,

But not as much compression as a treat hi hi head and it’s got a better shape chamber for cooler running,

The magnum head in the picture (way bigger then maxi) was milled not sanded for even more compression for experimental use but it shows the same, the stud tabs are removed and the ring is removed compared to the stock heads in the picture,

On the maxi head and magnum head I sometimes put a different size squish bands in them but if the piston in stock engine is so far down I don’t sometimes,

Actually a magnum cylinder should be base spaced a few millimeters and then the cylinder face should have a few mm milled off of it kinda like a 70cc treats/kstar kit has to but just modifying the head takes a fraction of the time for big gains,

I sometimes mill the face of the piston where the transfers are so they’re open at bottom dead center and then when I make a squish band into the head I don’t make as much of one there as well as notching the piston skirt so the intake is full open at top dead center,

There a lot a little tricks to do without porting the crap out of stock cylinders that could increase your power without making more heat and cylinder flex whereas if you’re removing a ton of metal that is a heat sink and foundation of a cylinder which can make your engine run hotter, more flex/blow by as well as changing the Powerband characteristics of the cylinder because you only got one speed,

Some puch kits or cylinder I wish reverse porting was available to increase low end for one speed engines,

Well Puch kinda figured that out that’s why they came out with the high torque cylinder/top end and stopped using the aluminum open port cylinder for more low end

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