I have a spare er3, case, and doppler crank I can get started with. I'll probably do this on the side as it is more involved than anticipated. Then plop it on one day.
> Michael Mike Naz Wrote:
> You would need to do number of things to properly flip the variator. Let
> me know if you would like a couple photos.
> It does move much of the mass off the end of the crankshaft and inboard
> towards the motor. While I am doing the lathe work to the inner section
> of the variator I also usually wander over to the mill and machine a new
> pocket into the doppler variator so it also properly keys to the
> You would also need to machine your doppler clutch shoes and switch the
> clutch pulley to HFL3030 bearing. During the machining of the clutch
> shoes I usually counter-bore and tap some holes into the clutch shoes to
> allow for variator weights to be added or removed so you can also tune
> the clutch somewhat. This whole process allows the pulley to be pushed
> out a bit further from the bike to get better belt alignment. Also I run
> a thrust bearing stack on either side of the pulley. That also helps
> with belt alignment has the added benefit that it also cuts down on
> Last little thing is the rear sprocket needs a little spacing out as
> well to get it back in alignment after you just pushed pulley out with
> that thrust stack on the inboard side.
> I do this same process to all these parts any time I use any of them.
> Sorry for the long response and hopefully that all made sense since I
> kinda suck at writing
> good luck on the project.