MOPED ARMY

Post video!

Great work man!

Glad to see this all came together and you really put in the work to get it on the bike and going!

I think you should make the wiring go over the top part permanent. Will be great for GP

Hell yea dawg that bitch is fat! Sounds fucking good. Definitely ready to rip so wieners off. Power band baby fucking power band.

Only outcome ATM is that it seems to run and Rev fine. I started to tare thing down to do it up 'right'.

Had Crank pipes cut me sum metal, and weld wizard Jake weld it up real nice.

Made an engine cradle, adjusted exhaust angle, and a mounting spot for doppler engine spring onto the malossi swing arm.

Wow that stage6 moby is great! I love how the top mount goes to the case vs the head to reduce stress. Was planning to do a moby conversion if people seemed interested enough in the pug version and how well it sells once it’s out.

I think his rpm gauge is set wrong. It says 30k lol, no way. That’s double. I’ve seen 15,070 on my hobbit and up to around 14k riding and variating. Maybe he explains that though. I don’t know French.

It’s probably a four stroke rpm gauge

Bit off topic but this the best sounding MBK ever

Almost looks like you know what you're doing . LOL

Nice work . ;)

Exhaust mock up. Gonna need to make a real exhaust hanger. Pretty happy with how the angles worked out though. Hopefully I can turn right with minimal scraping.

Might move the real hanger back slightly.

On Peugeot it is somewhat involved to flip an er3, moby er3 is easy just unbolt all the stuff and assemble it backwards on the hub. The only benefit to flipping is to get the belt alignment further out at max var. other than that it just makes it harder to tune.

You would need to do number of things to properly flip the variator. Let me know if you would like a couple photos.

It does move much of the mass off the end of the crankshaft and inboard towards the motor. While I am doing the lathe work to the inner section of the variator I also usually wander over to the mill and machine a new pocket into the doppler variator so it also properly keys to the crankshaft.

You would also need to machine your doppler clutch shoes and switch the clutch pulley to HFL3030 bearing. During the machining of the clutch shoes I usually counter-bore and tap some holes into the clutch shoes to allow for variator weights to be added or removed so you can also tune the clutch somewhat. This whole process allows the pulley to be pushed out a bit further from the bike to get better belt alignment. Also I run a thrust bearing stack on either side of the pulley. That also helps with belt alignment has the added benefit that it also cuts down on friction.

Last little thing is the rear sprocket needs a little spacing out as well to get it back in alignment after you just pushed pulley out with that thrust stack on the inboard side.

I do this same process to all these parts any time I use any of them.

Sorry for the long response and hopefully that all made sense since I kinda suck at writing

good luck on the project.

-Naz

Attached is center section difference, the left one is old retired part and the one on the right is spare that was planning on cutting down.

-naz

Word of mouth from the French tuners is the newer doppler was pushed out without the proper testing and was awful.

I think they have already pulled it from production

Our stage6 prototype, spare adapter plate shown to the right. The setup just bolts onto a standard doppler clutch pulley. The clutch bell hasn't been machined yet and we are awaiting tooling to do that.

Also not trying hijack this thread... let me know if I should delete this post. (edited)