Well, ya win some ya loose some.
So the front variators are a bust. They use the larger rollers, which means that by the time you get the variator on the crank you have no splines left.
However, they do physically fit, which means the 16mm CPI front faces can for sure work.
I ended up using a Honda Ruckus variator with the boss and ramp plate machined out to 16mm as these use very small rollers which will allow everything to be sandwiched real small and still give over range to the front.
The front plate is a malossi I will bore out to 16mm, the factory key along with a 16mm malossi key both fit just fine. It is slightly larger than stock.
The rear ! oh boy.. After seeing Barry @ Motomatics setup(La Furia Rossa) I was inspired.. I could see that the kickstart cover would not fit though, which for me on a street ripper is not my cup of tea.
So I bought a S6 R/T rear pulley because, well it was the cheapest option to fuck up!
So pretty much ANY rear pulley will work, but the minarelli ones are spaced the closest to a derbi in regards to the front bearing and rear. You need to pull the rear bearing out and bore the pocket out 1mm to accept the derbi sized rear bearing (HK2018RS)
I think If I turn down the od, use a stock width belt slightly longer this will all fit under a stock kickstart cover, Ohhhhh yeaaaaaaaa. Also to get over range you can't run wide belts as it will eat up your variator spacing..
On to the cranks.
I love me a long rod. No really, long rods are the best. If you keep your rod stroke ratio up in the magic 2.0+ range you make a very rev happy engine. Plus you can play with port timing as well as the longer the rod the more TDC and BDC dwell and mid section piston speed increases
What bummed me out was that it looks like the big pin on both the start3 and start5 are 16pin. I have some 18 pin cranks here and longer rods but no 16 pin stuff. So off to the pro-x site I found a Honda MBX50 rod fits, is 91mm long and will give me that long rod I so desire. Hahah, Rod.
And the last piece of the puzzle, I have both a Stage6 R/T 95cc or a 70cc
Both need to be messed with as the 95 wants a 44mm stroke and the 70 wants a 40mm.. My start5 is a 42mm.. I am leaning towards the 70 as its easier to machine the head up, make the baseplate thicker and center the ports then move the ports around a bit to suit.
Also this 95cc you can't get anymore.. But I did toy with the idea of making a stroker 2mm crank pin and going that route as well.
Wheels I am going to have to run spoked. I have some 2.5" aluminum 17's on the way. After I pulled the NS1 wheels apart I found a big hollow in behind where I was hoping to bore back the bearing pocket and move the sprocket in. I think I will instead try and graft them to the MB5 I just picked up.
That brings me to today.