Puch maxi setup

I'm starting a new project with puch maxi N. It's in pretty bad condition overall right now and I'm not sure what to do.

My goal is to end up with a bike that tops around 40 mph (I don't need more - it will be used for a daily commute in traffic), and has good acceleration in the lower end (that's more important for me for trafic lights statrs).

I could just clean it and make it run, but since I need to unscrew every bolt for cleaning and derusting and put all that work into it, I'm thinking I could tune it a little better:

1. Go for Airsal 65cc cylinder (with stock crank if it tourns out usable, just put new bearings and seals)

2. Get a 3 segment clutch with stiffer springs (https://www.puchshop.de/puch-engine-parts/puch-clutch-parts/clutch-3-segments.html), and tune the clutch to engage abowe 3-4k RPM

3. Get a cigar 28 mm exhaust

4. Buy a 14mm or 15 mm bing carb

5. Go for 15x45 gearing

Do you think it is worth it? Or is it better to stick to stock cylinder, and invest in a better clutch and possiblly a better pipe?

Re: Puch maxi setup

Get it running perfect in its stock configuration before you even consider any mods.

Re: Puch maxi setup

Don’t waste money on a three shoe clutch. Stock is fine, even with mild builds. Just tune the springs. if you keep it stock, 14 Bing, Metal mesh air filter, and tune your stock clutch, You’ll be mid-hi 30’s.

Re: Puch maxi setup

If you're rebuilding it with new bearings and seals, you might as well put a better crank in there.

Re: Puch maxi setup

> Mike Boyd Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> If you're rebuilding it with new bearings and seals, you might as well

> put a better crank in there.

this. they are cheap, and so much better than stock and will give you peace of mind

Re: Puch maxi setup

also, stock 2 shoe clutch is great.

If it were me, i'd either do the tccd 50cc or 70cc kit (both are cheap and both rip), proma circuit pipe, and gear to taste.

Re: Puch maxi setup

From what I've heard the clutch and pipe (and a better air filter) should give me more torque and acceleration in the lower RPM range that I'm looking. I'm surprised with what Seth says as I've read a lot of bad things about the stock clutch on this very forum.

Basically I want to replace every gasket, seal and bearing and I want to keep the budget under control. So my reasoning was: either get a slightly bigger cylinder (if the crank is ok), or get a new crank and leave stock cylinder (if the crank is worn out). Carb needs a full regeneration, so buying a new one is also o considerable option to match the carb/cylinder/exhaust setup.

Thanks for your answers. And do you guys think the 28mm cigar pipe will work with this setup? Would it be a considerable upgrade from a stock 22 mm?(edited)

Re: Puch maxi setup

Overpriced Parts /

I did dozens of stock e50 crank builds with new style fin 70cc DMP kit, 14 mm bing carburetor (222 atomizer 72 jet), 14 mm intake, metal mesh filter, techno circuit exhaust, tuned two clutch 14-14.5 before top dead center timing on stock ignition with a timing light at 3 to 4000 RPM and 17x40 gearing,

A steady timing mark is critical if your timing bounces all over the place due to points bounce your timing will never be correct, your magneto needs servicing in place such a big part in the tuning of your bike you’ll never know, I service mine every year,

See this : https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Puch_timing

None never seized and all are still running as far as I know,

I actually just received an email from a bike I did in 2008-09 from a bloke across the lake in Canada, he sent me a picture of his cylinder, I told him it looked still fine so I told him to order a $29 piston and ring and that’s all what was needed after all these years, and 13,7km

But he did change the single ring on the piston at 6km like I told him too prior as well as checking in maintaining the magneto and spark plug yearly,

A techno circuit exhaust on a flimsy entry level rigid frame bike that is low to the may not work though, so you might want a estoril type or other pipe but your pedal crank will probably hit,

Re: Puch maxi setup

really, if you are asking these questions, the best thing you can do is start with a good stock rebuild, find a used stock crank in good condition, and start by doing the basic speed mods

proma GP pipe

remove the head gasket/ high compression head

used OEM bing 14 (see ken's jetting recommend but 64 main instead)

new points

first thing you'll do is learn to set the timing and get good at that

next you can play with carb tuning

then you can see how modifying the timing to advance more or retard does for your performance

then you can start taking off the cylinder and porting it a tiny bit at a time and see how that changes

then you can mutz with the gearing and see how that changes

if you do that for an entire riding season and pretend that performance parts don't even exist, you will know more than 90% of the dummies who post on here with bad-running kitted bikes and blown up shit. a lot of us that have been in this for years started doing exactly this. You learn so much more about your bike and in the end you'll have something that does an easy 45 with great takeoff and blasts a lot of badly built kitted bikes.

the puch manual is really well written as well, its worth reading cover to cover. print a copy and put it by your shitter.

Re: Puch maxi setup

Seems like good advice. Thx Graham. I think I'll do just that. Try to make it run the best I can in stock condition, and then try to upgrade from there.

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