I wanted to try something I've thought about for awhile now.
Gonna suck off a homeless dude then murder him then dismember his corpse and distribute the body parts in various states I regularly travel through.
But then after that,
I wanted to make a bolt on extension engine mount that fit hobbits.
So I'm doing it.
Gotta figure out a way to lock the angle in, don't know how yet. Will also be making a shock extension to drop the rear tire down to a normal height
(edited)
A cross support wouldn’t hurt!
It's going to have one.
Not real familiar with hobbits so I'm not sure if this will work. The hole on the frame where my triangle goes to could be utilized to lock the ange. Mabye make a bracket like my drawing.
I was going to say, I used that whole as part of my triangulated foot pegs and it's plenty strong
That was the plan I hatched last night as well.
It will work, triangles rule everything around me
T.R.E.A.M.
I had a design for something similar using the top engine mount bolt, because i didnt trust those pressed in rivet nuts.
Oh yeah where is it?
Oh you never made it?
No? Never made it?
No you didn't
So shut it, designer....jeans
So SNYWAYSSSDSD
I EXTENEDED THE FUCKING SHOCHS OK
Whatchoo got planned for them dangly hacked rear fender mount duders on there?
Made it, just stopped using it. Want the 3D?
Well that aint the right picture. shit.
YOU DINT EVRN KNOW EHO YOUR ARE ANYMORE MORT
but yeah that looks kinda cool
Those just hang there.
I move them back when I run saddle bags so they don't hit the tire. You don't need almost any support, just a lil bit
> Mike Boyd Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Whatchoo got planned for them dangly hacked rear fender mount duders on
> there?
Added some aluminum bar cuz I'm done with steel right now.
Now I can adjust the angle and motor height and it's kicked back like 3in. New longer brackets could be made but 3-4in longer is perfect on the hobbit (that's what the lady hobbit said)
Will now find tune engine placement and shock length once running
Gotta trim excess and make good spacers.
(edited)
It also puts the carb lower which allows you to use more fuel from tank if you have uppy perched carbs
Somehow it feels like crazy Wayne is back in the house with his ranting and spelling difficulties. Now you just have to insert some disturbing porn gif...
Maybe this is crazy Wayne and you'll never know kevmo
nah jbot has his own style that is unique to his builds. a dash of scootertrash and a pinch of CW maybe.
I'm CRAZY WAYNE AND I made the fastest 13Port
He obviously did but you’d have to run it at bonneville because it was a 1 speed. The fastest 50cc was a Garelli with Kreidler motor but it had 12 gears. You are on the right track with variated “gears”. Do four bells or you’re not trying! Just like a semi shift it from low to high when you reach max variation. Put your second set of pulleys on a launch lever so when it engages the low disengages. Suicide style. It would be hard to downshift.
Made spacers, the bottom bolt I had was kinda long so I had to add outer spacers too.
But I've got the engine placed so there's room for the bushings to flex a lil like they're supposed to.
Basically ready to ride.
Now I just have to do the top end build and redo the intake with a noice V reed adapter from happy pancake..
Btw, inside that V in the motor mount is the perfect place for a water pump
One thing he doesn’t mention it’s that it lowers the engine so it sits closer to the ground
All most all front wheel drive cars have something similar to what you are describing. The rear spindle is bolted to a swing arm and looks very similar to what you have shown.
I have to get back to this soon
I’m back at it. Did a bunch of shit today and it’s almost ready to rip. Added a 48mm ruima kit to this hobbit, and a bolt on engine mount extender, and 25mm carb, had to mod pipe to fit scooter headers.. just gotta get squish right, took too much off the bottom of the cyl cuz you gotta do that on scooter kits on hobbit cases usually...,so maybe I’ll cut a spacer to not have squish be 0. Running air cooled with the scooter kit for now with the big eurokit head to hopefully keep it manageable. Gonna set it up with a large squish to try and keep it cool
Probably should have only taken like 1mm off for a large squish, oh well
Did you ever have a piston that was just super out of spec brand new? The rings are slightly too thick in some areas, the clips spin a bit too easily even if I retention the clip before install. Tried different clips with the same result. The wristpin hole in the piston was slightly too loose with the original pin but found another pin here that’s better.
It’s a weird 48mm piston and I can’t return it so I’m going to try and make it work. Going to try to rough up the outer edge of the clips and clip grooves to make it grab better once installed so it cannot spin and allow it to spit itself out.
The OD seems pretty good, will sand the rings until they fit the ringlands without sticking.
What a pain in the ass
These kits are made so cheap! Probably cost them $5 bucks to spit out
They are always out of wack its normal
Well I fixed everything. Sanded the outside of the clips and used a dental tool to dig out the center of the clip slots.. clips seat in nice now and are hard to spin.
Saw why the pin was a lil loose, one side of the casting is missing a bit of alu where the pin goes thru inside the piston so it doesn’t have as much pin bore as the other side. Nbd, it’ll run for awhile.
Just gotta finish the pipe tomorrow and I get to test the bolt on mount and the new engine setup. I also attempted to bore a 21mm OKO into a 26mm OKO. It looks promising after cleaning and blowing it out and putting it all back together. We’ll see if it works.
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