Building a Kinetic TFR

I picked up a Kinetic TFR I think its an '80 or something around there. Getting a parts list together right now. Condition of it unknown, it is missing head and carb and maybe some other odds and ends. Looking for a kit, pipe, and carb that doesn't require a lot of manual labor and time to work. Would like 55mph :))). I know I know I am an idiot, "That's impossible to go more than 12 mph on a kinetic!" I think this TFR is the single speed also though?

Looking at the Proma Circuit pipe, dellorto sha 13.13, and haven't figure out which kit to go with. I'm fine to do some gasket matching just not much experience.

What do you guys think I should do first? Anything I should check before moving on?

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

13.13 seems small

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Dirty30 Dillon /

> Dan Pasanen Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> 13.13 seems small

13.13 is the biggest you can go on the stock Vespa cases, and even then you need to bore the intake.

If you aren't splitting your cases, 12.12, gianelli fire circuit, olympia 43mm and head. You will probably see like very low 40's with that.

55 is not an easy/cheap number on a vespa.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Thanks for input. I don't want to limit myself down the road if I decide to split cases so probably get the 13.13 right? Also i'm fine boring the intake or buying larger one if i can find it?

Why do you say that pipe over proma? Also the Polini people seem to like better than olympia and saying it makes more power? If low 40's is all I will get isn't there a larger kit I can get say 70cc-80cc? Not trying to be difficult just curious on your take.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Also considering I don't know the state of anything on this moped if the case ends up being bad and I need to replace it I will probably upgrade it however that's possible

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Dirty30 Dillon /

The intake is cast into the case, so unless you want to go aftermarket cases, 13mm and 13.13 is it.

The olympia is a reliable kit and port map. It is not the most powerful of the 43mm. I honestly love the Athena 43, but the DR and Malossi 43 are great.

That said, you can't go over a 43mm kit without boring the cases, or like I said, going aftermarket cases.

I prefer the Gianelli to the proma, both for construction and overall hit.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

to make your bike even move it's gonna take manual labor and time. keep reading before u dig in.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

When I got my kinetic it did 27 mph gps stock. Then I swapped to a proma pipe, 13.13 carb and a malossi high flow filter and it did 34 mph.

Once you put a 43mm kit on it keep a eye on the subframe it will probably crack. They are made from cheap steel.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Seems like you like them all except Polini which is fine its more expensive. Seems I should stick with 43mm for now. Alright Gianelli it is :).

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

I've read and I've done manual labor, the point of that post was to say I don't want to require it since I should get it running before trying to set any records.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

I've heard they were made of aluminum and can cut easily with a saw. Have you seen them crack when you're riding it?! I suppose its good I am not trying to go 60 mph on it if that's the case.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Dirty30 Dillon /

The subs are not made of aluminum, just bad steel.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Mine had a few cracks by where the wheel mounts and above the front engine mounts when I removed it.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Should I have to pull engine to get cylinder off or should it slide off the front after head is off? The piston is kind of seized in there maybe holding it on so not sure what's normal procedure.

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Make sure there's not another nut on the stud under the decomp spring thing, sometimes there's two. Or maybe the base gasket is just sticky

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Theres 3 headstuds and no nuts on them since this moped didnt come with a head. Are there other nuts that hold the cylinder on? Using a small pry bar doesn't seem to slide it off is there something else I need to remove to get cylinder to slide off studs?

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Dirty30 Dillon /

If it's seized, it won't just come off. And don't just have at it with a prybar.

Pull the engine completely out and disassemble on the bench. You're going to want to really soak the top end with penetrant to help loosen the piston up for removal

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

How do I remove the engine?

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Dirty30 Dillon /

A simple googling will do ya. Pretty much the same series of actions, +/- some things

Re: Building a Kinetic TFR

Legend. Thank you

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