MOPED ARMY

Umm, wtf is this?

A boost port plug wedged in? Saw it lifting off as I was chopping it out. I thought it was just cast. Nope.

I also opened the magical hidden boost in the cases, it’s on both sides of the cases so you could flip the cyl 180 if you wanted and still have a full boost for other engine applications.

I lastly finished porting and cutting gaskets I’ll assemble tomorrow

I can see a very easy way to put big reeds on this. Just have to do a lil aluminum welding to the stator side and vari side to seal up the reed area in the cases that’s reduced in size. Then hog all that garbage out

Kx65 reeds are not too far off from working

I mean those transfers are pretty kicksss

I bet with a 17-19mm carb and any big reed this would be a really great engine

Makes me wonder what the big end is like .

Maybe enough side play to allow sufficient lube .

I noticed that the studs on this setup had some rust on them, I assume from condensation after being sealed up or radiator fluid leaking into the stud holes. I’m considering drilling a small condensation relief hole about 1/16 in each hole and it would also tell me if I’m getting any leakage

Ok first issue.

I read that these need 6oz of fluid but I can’t get that all in. I changed the squish and head gasket thickness so that’s part of it I bet.

Is there an approximate measuring way with this? Like fill it up til it’s x amount below the full threads?

I got in like 5.6 oz with a tiny bit of air

The bike started right up but it immediately started leaking fluid. I think that aviation gasket was shit, and the copper gasket was too thin to balance between the outer oring seal. Like they were different heights. I need to check a stock solos head gasket thickness

Doing a bunch more yamabond on paper now for base and head. I might need to go to a thicker base 1mm spacer in order to get the squish looser.

I think I have 1mm copper sheet

The bike felt like you’d expect with the 10, can’t take advantage of the porting. I’ll throw a bigger intake on next if I can get it to not leak

Filled it up with fluid and it’s holding so far.

Thank you yamabond!

Used an ax34 on it

Jetted the 10 at 73, wouldn’t clear at 80

It’s also open now, so once a filter gets on there the 73 will be perfect I bet.

So far the porting is holding up. No issues with throttle response or low end issues.

On flats it’s impressive, climbs my big hills out here at 20mph so it’ll only get better with a bigger carb and reed block.

Now the bad is the vari thing. Rattly as fuck and the belt is rubbing on the oversized cases

Idling sounds like detonation. I think I need a smooth belt because these teeth don’t slip well at idle and this vari/clutch is just meant to slip to engage.

Also have to clean the gas tank out as it’s rusty city.

So overall everything I did is fine.

Really gotta get an adaptor made to pop on a pug er3. Anyone know the Peugeot clutch double D crank to clutch bell size (circle diameter)?

So you're saying rely on the convective motion of the water vs the conduction through the metal? In a purely theoretical sense the transfer through metal to metal should be so much higher than metal to water to metal, like the temps should equalize thru the contacting metal faster than thru heat transfer via the water.

Like if its just moving heat to a larger area, essentially using the outer shell as a radiator, I can't possibly imagine that being more effective

Like there's almost no way you wouldn't have better heat transfer if the space was replaced by metal fins.

Saw that the moby varplus weights are very close to the same size as the stock weights, so going to make some simple 1/16 steel roller guides to allow them to stay in their lane. If the moby weights aren’t heavy enough I’ll just drill them out and stuff em with something heavy.

Going to use the 3 prongs on the ramp plate for the starter clutch to guide the guides placement and keep balance. Maybe I’ll solder them in. That would be cool

im guessing you cant unhook the spring, remove some of the stock weights and then put it back together?

Those rollers are tied to the spring with spring pins. Yes you could arrange 3 weights with pins and it would work, but the whole spring idea is garbage. It’s asking for unbalancing as the spring stretches

no the problem is the top of the cylinder gets hot and the bottom stays cold and the heat doesn't transfer farther down to the lower fins

so instead the heat goes into the water jacket and heat transfer through water is better than through aluminum anyway and then it goes through the outside cylinder fins. The thermal load on the outside fins is more even than if the fins were on the cylinder so more heat is rejected even though the outside fins are the same area

Tried using the stock weights cut off the spring and 3 of them is really good (7g each), but I think still slightly lighter is needed, and even though I ground off the pointy middle area it doesn’t want to idle well because those weights are slightly too big and cause a jumpy idle from grabbing the belt. I will pull the pins out next from the weights.

I might have to cut a cheek a little bit to get this idling better. Idk.

I’ll look into drilling out the varplus weights and adding steel or brass to up the weight.

But yeah this works great!

What a stupid weird fun bike

Yeah, the springs are held together with roll pins. I was in the process of modifying a kx65 reeds to mine, they’re not too far off.