Re: Solo Fuckery

Umm, wtf is this?

A boost port plug wedged in? Saw it lifting off as I was chopping it out. I thought it was just cast. Nope.

I also opened the magical hidden boost in the cases, it’s on both sides of the cases so you could flip the cyl 180 if you wanted and still have a full boost for other engine applications.

I lastly finished porting and cutting gaskets I’ll assemble tomorrow

I can see a very easy way to put big reeds on this. Just have to do a lil aluminum welding to the stator side and vari side to seal up the reed area in the cases that’s reduced in size. Then hog all that garbage out


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Kx65 reeds are not too far off from working

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Next time I get my tig running I’ll add in the plates. I kinda want to see what the 10 will do, a tiny carb in front of a very awesome cyl

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I mean those transfers are pretty kicksss

I bet with a 17-19mm carb and any big reed this would be a really great engine

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Used a copper Tomos head gasket with aviation sealer #3. It’s nasty. We’ll see if it holds my .7mm squish without leaking. Guessed on the base gasket spacing but .65mm matzoh box was decent. A 1mm gasket paper would make a slightly more tame squish but safer.

Cut a slot in the Conrod as there was no hole or anything. Chamfered the inside edge with a strip of sandpaper

Also added material to the variator boss, the outer edge seems to break off a bunch so Mr Mohoot suggested welding then shaping to make it like new. It worked and will center the ramp plate.

Can’t wait to see what this 10mm Sha will do with the cylinder.


Re: Solo Fuckery

> JBOT Admin Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------


> Cut a slot in the Conrod as there was no hole or anything. Chamfered the

> inside edge with a strip of sandpaper


Makes me wonder what the big end is like .

Maybe enough side play to allow sufficient lube .

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No, it’s tight




I burned up an av7 small end that had no oiling hole. Never again

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I noticed that the studs on this setup had some rust on them, I assume from condensation after being sealed up or radiator fluid leaking into the stud holes. I’m considering drilling a small condensation relief hole about 1/16 in each hole and it would also tell me if I’m getting any leakage

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A few of the early 80s Honda DOHCs were given the small hole drilled toward the bottom of the stud holes .

They had/have a history of rust crud collecting at the bottom of the stud holes , making cylinder removal a true pain .

That little breather hole helps eliminate the problem .

Re: Solo Fuckery

Ok first issue.

I read that these need 6oz of fluid but I can’t get that all in. I changed the squish and head gasket thickness so that’s part of it I bet.

Is there an approximate measuring way with this? Like fill it up til it’s x amount below the full threads?

I got in like 5.6 oz with a tiny bit of air

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There was something weird about it, had to tip the bike up or something, the way the engine sits it can't get a bubble out.

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The bike started right up but it immediately started leaking fluid. I think that aviation gasket was shit, and the copper gasket was too thin to balance between the outer oring seal. Like they were different heights. I need to check a stock solos head gasket thickness

Doing a bunch more yamabond on paper now for base and head. I might need to go to a thicker base 1mm spacer in order to get the squish looser.

I think I have 1mm copper sheet

The bike felt like you’d expect with the 10, can’t take advantage of the porting. I’ll throw a bigger intake on next if I can get it to not leak

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Found this in the manual.

So I guess fill it up


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Filled it up with fluid and it’s holding so far.

Thank you yamabond!

Used an ax34 on it

Jetted the 10 at 73, wouldn’t clear at 80

It’s also open now, so once a filter gets on there the 73 will be perfect I bet.

So far the porting is holding up. No issues with throttle response or low end issues.

On flats it’s impressive, climbs my big hills out here at 20mph so it’ll only get better with a bigger carb and reed block.

Now the bad is the vari thing. Rattly as fuck and the belt is rubbing on the oversized cases

Idling sounds like detonation. I think I need a smooth belt because these teeth don’t slip well at idle and this vari/clutch is just meant to slip to engage.

Also have to clean the gas tank out as it’s rusty city.

So overall everything I did is fine.

Really gotta get an adaptor made to pop on a pug er3. Anyone know the Peugeot clutch double D crank to clutch bell size (circle diameter)?


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Re: Solo Fuckery

> Graham Motzing Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I really think that some dumbass engineering manager just had a boner

> for this stupid idea and nobody could talk him out of it. I've seen so

> much stupid shit get done for that reason...


> The 'reduced heat transfer' theory is fully bunk, though, because the

> limiting factor is always going to be the convective into the air, and

> the water is going to even out the cylinder temp so instead of having

> the base of the head fins at say 350 degrees and the fins lower down on

> the cylinder at say 200°, this way the water equalizes the temp and all

> of the fins are carrying the same base temperature therefore the heat

> transfer goes up for the whole cylinder.

So you're saying rely on the convective motion of the water vs the conduction through the metal? In a purely theoretical sense the transfer through metal to metal should be so much higher than metal to water to metal, like the temps should equalize thru the contacting metal faster than thru heat transfer via the water.

Like if its just moving heat to a larger area, essentially using the outer shell as a radiator, I can't possibly imagine that being more effective

Like there's almost no way you wouldn't have better heat transfer if the space was replaced by metal fins.

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All I know is that I can put my hand on the head and cyl after going around the block.

Try that with an air cooled while climbing hills.

So basically this res is totally full of fluid. no air.

All this talk of measuring is silly. Just fill it up, put in the screw.

The belt I tried is a little too wide for good idling.

I’ll just wear it down.

The slow rigid moped isn’t too bad.

Fast rigid not so much. This thing flexes so much it’s almost like having suspension.

So now I gotta try to adjust rollers.

Will cut off a lil bit off each roller on the spring thing. Should up the clutch engagement and shift. I’m considering welding in some dividers on the ramp plate to use normal rollers, cuz this hollow spring roller shit is total bullshit

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Saw that the moby varplus weights are very close to the same size as the stock weights, so going to make some simple 1/16 steel roller guides to allow them to stay in their lane. If the moby weights aren’t heavy enough I’ll just drill them out and stuff em with something heavy.

Going to use the 3 prongs on the ramp plate for the starter clutch to guide the guides placement and keep balance. Maybe I’ll solder them in. That would be cool


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Tried soldering but it wasn’t strong enough for the ramps on end. So I tacked it today and it looks decent. I think this will work just fine



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im guessing you cant unhook the spring, remove some of the stock weights and then put it back together?

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It increases the tension too much and has a hard time engaging the “clutch”. The rollers is a great idea and I’m super stoked on this. I may give this a go with one of those treats engines. I have a seized solo engine sitting on the shelf that would be a great donor.

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Those rollers are tied to the spring with spring pins. Yes you could arrange 3 weights with pins and it would work, but the whole spring idea is garbage. It’s asking for unbalancing as the spring stretches

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Not to mention that the rollers aren’t flat.

They are angled to a point at the center which makes it very rattly as the outer edges clatter against the cheeks

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classic carl jepsen /

> Born to be WillD Wrote:

> Like there's almost no way you wouldn't have better heat transfer if the

> space was replaced by metal fins.

no the problem is the top of the cylinder gets hot and the bottom stays cold and the heat doesn't transfer farther down to the lower fins

so instead the heat goes into the water jacket and heat transfer through water is better than through aluminum anyway and then it goes through the outside cylinder fins. The thermal load on the outside fins is more even than if the fins were on the cylinder so more heat is rejected even though the outside fins are the same area

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Shit works good. Added bearing solder just to help hold it without any more welding.

Used 3 heaviest varplus weights and it’s decent at 7.5g total. But I feel like the float is set low so once it tries to get into the power it’s running out of gas. I’ll try a higher float position first and then maybe put a larger jet in.


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Tried using the stock weights cut off the spring and 3 of them is really good (7g each), but I think still slightly lighter is needed, and even though I ground off the pointy middle area it doesn’t want to idle well because those weights are slightly too big and cause a jumpy idle from grabbing the belt. I will pull the pins out next from the weights.

I might have to cut a cheek a little bit to get this idling better. Idk.

I’ll look into drilling out the varplus weights and adding steel or brass to up the weight.

But yeah this works great!

What a stupid weird fun bike


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Oh and it’s not 1 spring on my setup.

It was 5 separate springs each looped around the inner pin

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Yeah, the springs are held together with roll pins. I was in the process of modifying a kx65 reeds to mine, they’re not too far off.

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You’d really have to open up the cases to get better flow. It’s looking very easy to make the Aluminum patches to get the full advantage of those 65 reeds. They’re close to the same stud pattern on the cases? (edited)

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