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Running lean with a 99 on a 16 with stock exhaust 😳. Wow figured it would be in the 70s that is big boi stuff. That thing is thirsty.

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This bike has been one stupid problem after another.

First it had a hanging idle issue but the throttle cable was just too tight and had to cut the housing, then still had a climbing idle issue but ironing that out with jetting when I was like 10 mainjet sizes over.

I have been chasing this horrible banging sound on this bike, fucking awful. Thought it was the vari or detonation but could not find it.

It was a stripped motor mount bolt that still mostly tightened. The steel motor mount would bang against the aluminum cases while riding. So glad I found it, fuck. Think it was affecting spark too, I gotta add some ground straps. The stupid short plug wire and shit plug cap kept popping off the plug but would still make some contact for a shitty spark. I hate those 70s caps.

I had to drop back down to a 90 jet after the airbox, and add one extra port

Now it’s launch lever time so I can see what’s really what. It’s fun to let yourself be consumed by a really fucking weird moped and let it kill you (edited)

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It is how esoteric mopeds are that keeps me interested in them.

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Launch lever was interesting.

All day project.

Had to cut the pedal shaft housing, chop the bell sprocket to make it flat...ended up using a treats defective Vespa Ciao pulley to weld it to the pedal shaft. Used a pedal shaft as the jig when welding the Vespa pulley, then chopped it off the bell thing, then welded to the shaft.

Then the raunchy launchy was up once I had room on the shaft (that’s what the penis tattoo artist said)

I got a pipe, made a hdpe bushing for it, then welded brackets from a pull out couch onto that shit.

Ok now here’s the fucking awesome shit. Since the springs are above the motor mount fulcrum, moving forwards is moving engine backwards up derrr. It’s fucking opposite day. So the linkage rides right outside the spring. Also made adjustable spring mounting points above the original spring mounts for more leverage and a launch lever mount point.

It will act the same for my foot as the other levs, push down and it goes into lower gear.

Overall a very fun and awful day


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Oh shit is right, want to see vids of this thing ripping.

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It’s not ported too crazy, and there’s no pipe so far.

So it’ll climb my hills I think but it’s not a beast.. just a fun stupid bike I get to reverse engineer because there are so many badly designed things

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Launch lever looks awesome!

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The lever mech is functional but is missing something design wise. Ive got to have it run parallel with the spring cuz being at a different angle looks weird. I wanted to run it with a braided cable, but then I’ll lose any ability of upshifting which is nice to have sometimes.. Maybe I’ll braze a rod onto some spacers for a better look than that aluminum bar.

So when one runs a stock exhaust there’s just no noticeable powerband? I haven’t run a bike without a pipe in 10 years

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Open up that stock exhaust and take a look at the hidden internal header extension. Might be able to squeeze a little more out of it by playing with the length?

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Naw I’m gonna leave the exhaust as is for now, I’m sure a pipe will be in its future. I won’t be able to resist the possibility of 30% more free power for long. It’s too tempting

My porting really begs for a pipe to work right

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I tried to find a digram of the exhaust but could not. I’m curious on how they did it in that box. Is it just a pancake like stock hobbit exhaust? I wonder if you open up the exit hole or add another exit it may help?

.....Well looking at motor pics it looks way more intricate than a simple stock exhaust. I wonder how much piping if any is coiled up in that box. I wonder if the header just goes in that cast box then come out that wired baffle thing on the side. Very interesting design. (edited)

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I swear I saw a picture of one taken apart somewhere. Yeah I think that exhaust is holding me back a lot. I have a proma I could throw on they’re just so loud even when wrapped.

I do think I have another snowmobile ball joint hanging around. Maybe I’ll chop it in to some pipe I have lying around

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Agreed. I’m going to keep digging for a pic just because I am curious.

Well Myron’s had the digram. Looks kinda crazy in there.



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Haha never seen a proma meme before

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The “tuning tube” may be some kind of restrictor...

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You fuck. Now you got it into my head to take that oily trash can apart. Fuck you

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Sorry I fucked up 🤦‍♂️🤣

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It’s not worth how nasty it is in there, the performance difference for my set up was not noticeable after removing the internal header. Just cut the lower flange off and weld a Vespa or pug/moby pipe on there. On mine I was thinking if it sucked I would go back to stock so I bolted a ball joint to the lower flange and it worked amazingly well with the rear swing mount just bolted into the swingarm.

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> Daniel '' Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> It’s not worth how nasty it is in there, the performance difference for

> my set up was not noticeable after removing the internal header. Just

> cut the lower flange off and weld a Vespa or pug/moby pipe on there. On

> mine I was thinking if it sucked I would go back to stock so I bolted a

> ball joint to the lower flange and it worked amazingly well with the

> rear swing mount just bolted into the swingarm.

Did you need to mod the header on the ball joint pipe so it didn't stick way up or was it alright?

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got it running ok, but it’s doing the sudden dying thing at odd times, just cuts out. It’ll run fine then just die.. I’ve got to get a few new plugs. I’ve seen some dissolved varnish in the fuel line, idk.

Could be that the varnish doesn’t burn then the engine dies really quick.

I’ve also had issues with idle.

The former spring weight assembly gets squeezed around the hub at idle which allows the cheek to push out and idle easily. Well my new weight setup has no spring to stop the rollers from jumping a bit during idle from centrifugal force and biting the belt then basically dying if off the stand. :(

I’ve been experimenting with smaller diameter rollers to see if that will help, but I came up with another way. I’m going to weld some right angle brackets onto the outer edge of the pulley cheek, which will support a bolted on bar that runs over the crank nut. A compression spring will live over that ramp plate nut to the outer bar to force the cheek open at idle. It will also allow my to custom tune the clutch “stall”. A stronger spring vs the roller weight will determine how easily the cheeks will come together and bite the belt. I won’t be able to pedal start it anymore but none of my bikes pedal start so fuck it.

I’m really excited about doing this but I have to put this away until Xmas. I’ve got a teddy bear orchestra Xmas video to prepare for, and I’ve been procrastinating with mopeds like usual.

So tally ho I’m off to work vith ze bearz


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I fixed the idle issue. Super fucking baller.

This was just proof of concept. Yeah there will be a cover over this, and it’s going to be slightly tighter to the crank. Will use alu plate too instead of u channel.

Fucking rules.


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You’re missing some parts, like the spring that hold the starter plate spring And preloads the moving cheek off the hub. Also use a smooth belt and not a toothed belt. It works better with the roller bearings idler clutch.

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The starter plate doesn’t affect that movable cheek except to push it. It doesn’t pull it back like I needed for higher stall.

it has a much higher stall now so yaaaaa.

I can actually tune shit in so again, so yaaaa

Today I added pull start and the extension cover and new spring plate. Seems decent but I have to put a pipe on this. It’s good now but I think a pipe will unleash the beast on this to be much more fun. I have a very old hack n weld pipe I did that might be perfect for this for now. I’ll make a new header rather than cutting the original. I now have a new throwing star so lookout I’m aimin for scrote


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Whoa that's a great idea for a pawl, no more fucking around, drilling holes in flywheels

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As far as I can tell, the only thing that allows this to idle in its stock form are the springs on the rollers. They pull the roller in tight on the hub of the movable cheek, allowing it to float with no pressure from jumping rollers during idle.

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> Wesley Ambrosini Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Whoa that's a great idea for a pawl, no more fucking around, drilling

> holes in flywheels

JUSt have to offset them to grab the starter

I did have to grind down the leading edges of the pawl on the tack welds to allow the starter to hit it flat on flat. The weld got in the way.

I welded with the puller screwed in and oiled. That would protect the flywheel threads just in case (edited)


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Nice thanks for the pics, I think I have the exact same pullstart that is beggin' to go on something

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