Ignition/electrical options for my build

Hey guys, so my build went from freshening up an old seized 'ped to it now getting the whole go-through

I have my frame/running gear mostly together, new cylinder/crank/bearings/seals in box sitting next to a clean split case still and I got to wondering.. basically everything is new except for the crusty old stator/ignition now. Am I going to need an upgrade? keep it points? CDI? keep it 6v? convert it to 12v? LEDS? Internal coil? Electrical has just now crossed my mind and I don't know my next step. All this time worrying about fuel and air, I completely neglected spark.

Here are some specs on what I am putting together for perspective

>50cc treatkit for the people + hi hi head

>lightened unstuffed racing crank

>Tecno Circuit pipe

>15mm real Bing

>1# grandpa intake

Obviously if I want to run brighter lights I need to convert it to 12v.. will my stock ignition work with this setup? or should I uprgade to an internal coil/points or cdi or mini-rotor? I am a noob to begin with and know even less about ignition components.. Was hoping to get this thing going before winter but now it's looking like next spring :P

Thanks as always <3

(pic of bike for attention)


Re: Ignition/electrical options for my build

Wesley Ambrosini /

Stock points run 6v ac so no 12vdc modern lights for you. Treats CDI kit seems to have a track record of breaking easily and the next step up is $300 so what's your budget? IMO keep the points if you can (at least until the bike is tuned and running perfect) because they're really bulletproof and easier to diagnose than a new hpi rotor setup

A new ignition, boot, spark plugs wire, and wiring for the whole bike is definitely an option.

Re: Ignition/electrical options for my build

Here is my optimum setup: Eliminate horn and horn/light switch. Keep the points but rewire the stator so you have a wire from the ignition coil going to a ring connector (for the points) and also to the terminal block. Remove the stock condenser and instead get a screw-type condenser and mount it to one of the bolts on the HT coil. Get two more wires and splice them together at another ring connector. Keep the end of one wire bare. Put a female spade connector on the other one. The ring connector goes on your external condenser. The spade connector goes to your HT coil. And the other wire goes to the terminal block where your stator wire is plugged in.

Remove the brake light coil. Replace the 6v headlight coil with the 12v coil. Mount a regulator on the hole in the frame near the rear fender. Yellow wire from lighting coil goes to regulator to terminal block and then up to headlight. Green wire from lighting coil goes to terminal block and up to brake switches. Tail light coil remains in place.

Finally, use the same type of M4 bolt for all stator hardware (coil bolts, stator mounting bolts, points bolt, flywheel cover bolts).

This setup takes a little labor up front, but it makes future repairs a lot easier. You just need one tool to set points gap, air gap, and timing. You can replace your points with just that tool and a small wrench or 4mm socket (and a flywheel puller, of course) and no soldering anything. You can replace your condenser without disturbing the terminal block, much less popping the flywheel, and because your condenser is in line with the HT coil you have one less wire competing for terminal block space with a kill switch or some Trail Tech thing. For lighting, I have been able to run LEDs with BA15S bases that drop into the stock tail fixture and the $24 Treats headlight. I don’t know why the tail light works with these LEDs, because it’s still just a 6v coil, but I swear it works. (edited)

Re: Ignition/electrical options for my build

Overpriced Parts /

No to all that work ^ yeah easy to change and work but you have to change and work on it

Most of where I ride is far so I need a dead reliable ignition/electrical system, I run stock bosch 6 wire Ignition and they still work perfect, no China made coil, condenser and components like regulator that will fail are thrown in the mix,

Stock ignition if in good condition which most are are super reliable, Yours maybe a 5 wire ignition not a 6 wire but it’s still good, if you have it use it, if you have access to a six wire set up with wiring harness then I would use that,

Stock setup is protected from the elements if you run covers, No wires, condenser, regulator or parts exposed the outside.

Most my bikes were redone in 2006-08 and most every bike I worked on I reused the stock components, maybe only changing the points if worn, rarely did the stock condenser ever go bad, all still works perfect today even after being manufactured in 1978-1979,

If you’re going to go electronic maybe get a retarding ignition like hpi because it has performance gain as well as possible cooler temperatures if set up right but it like any cdi’s are race ignitions that can overheat and fail if covered (If you have a za50 engine a stock 1995-2013 Tomos ignition could be made to work reliability),

Chopping up your stock ignition and wiring system and throwing china made parts in the mix will never be as reliable

Re: Ignition/electrical options for my build

The stock 6v ignition will keep you happy for awhile, especially with that setup. It's simple and you can use stock diagrams to figure out why something isn't working. CDI can suck to diagnose; its even harder when you don't know electronics well.

If you have the guts to wire a regulator by yourself then definitely get that 12v light coil. Get good at working with the stock ignition and setting timing with points. You'll get more comfortable with wiring when you switch to the 12v lighting coil. Once you master those two things, you can look into pietcard coils and not pay $300 for a retarding CDI ignition.

Re: Ignition/electrical options for my build

Tweaker trash /

After looking @ your bike, I’m about to ditch my clip ones & get so big bars

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