MOPED ARMY

On mine I epoxied on a cut up dio reed block. Devcon f. Figured the most direct flow path towards transfers, with the reeds themselves up away enough from crankshaft turbulence. Runs proper but I haven't made the time for getting it dialed into what it should be.

Nah I'm just terrible at tig. If you're talented at aluminum and can weld air tight that's the way to go, I've seen many e50s with material added. If you're going epoxy or using it to smooth stuff out the Devcon type f matches the thermal expansion of aluminum better than jbweld

Todd,

I like the look of that engine.

Jordan, and any other tomar clutch user,

Those dry clutches seem cool, but how do the gears get any lube? Isnt the clutch area and the gear area all together for the transmission fluid to get to? Do the gears run dry as well? I still would think it would be good to have some lube on the straight cut gears too.

I'm just a wannabe tuner so please forgive my ignorance.

The tomar holeshots that we use in e50s are made for wet use. There’s other dry karting clutches that are identical for the most part. Someone here has that crazy tomar outside an e50 that’s obviously dry. That shits wicked.

I’d assume you’d just use sealed bearings.. then make a dust cover for the Main gear

“ -Crank walk: 22hp is alot to contain in that squirmy case, any ideas to keep crank seated? Thought about sanding/milling a few thou off the the case to tighten the tolerance? also, straight cut gears will undoubtedly help with this”

Not just crank walk but crank bearings will spin, I’ve glued the bearings in a high powered build with a few drops of bushing adhesive and used puch NOS bearings especially the snap ring one, it’s a shielded back design which is stronger plus Less prone to have a transmission side leak ,

You got to be careful with the adhesive though, use just a tiny bit and it could pretty much be a one shot deal,

To get the 22 hp out of the cylinder, you will need some high end parts. The toronda cylinder will soon be available with a fitting cnc head. Also the p6 exhaust won't work well with this cylinder. If you're lucky a fitting pipe will be for sale on their website too. I'm not sure if it will be though. My reed case is welded on there. Welded it tig, with all bearings in place and all bolts tightened. (To prevent warping). Other then a crack, which appeared after 2 year of dirt racing, it stayed airtight.

You will need a good crankshaft, there is a strong one at their webshop for sale.

First I made a reed block out of a blok of aluminium. also milled a big gap in the case. If you look closely at the first picture, you can see how far the case was milled out. almost 2cm of the radius around the crankshaft is the reed blok.