Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Johnny Braaapp /

Looking into building an air cooled race motor. I've searched around for some information regarding builds that utilize case induction. Found a few old threads, most are so old that pictures are no longer working. I am quite skilled in welding, fab, & machining. I am just looking for any walk throughs or write ups on this topic? Probably will end up going with a dutch made race cylinder. (45mm) But open to other options (kx80) but also I am looking to stay air cooled. I'll be starting with a bare e50, and building everything accordingly. I have seen what looked like an adapter plate that was in production, but couldn't locate much more information on that. Totally okay with cutting the hole and welding matching mating surface material, But location and shit I have no clue on.

Cheers.

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

On mine I epoxied on a cut up dio reed block. Devcon f. Figured the most direct flow path towards transfers, with the reeds themselves up away enough from crankshaft turbulence. Runs proper but I haven't made the time for getting it dialed into what it should be.

IMG_20200606_191424.jpg
IMG_20200606_191359.jpg
IMG_20200606_184831.jpg

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Johnny Braaapp /

Looks good. Is that Devcon F recommended over welding, due to warpage?

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Nah I'm just terrible at tig. If you're talented at aluminum and can weld air tight that's the way to go, I've seen many e50s with material added. If you're going epoxy or using it to smooth stuff out the Devcon type f matches the thermal expansion of aluminum better than jbweld

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

todd amundson /

[attachment > Johnny Brapp Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Looks good. Is that Devcon F recommended over welding, due to warpage?

Yeah you can weld for days and never get a good seal with induction on e50s. People say weld it on the inside. Either way there’s epoxy involved. I like the old puchshop block that bolts and glues on. I’ve bolted and glued before. Works fine.

9535E7FB-F5DB-4831-BD95-50B7B8F7D7E7.jpeg

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Todd,

I like the look of that engine.

Jordan, and any other tomar clutch user,

Those dry clutches seem cool, but how do the gears get any lube? Isnt the clutch area and the gear area all together for the transmission fluid to get to? Do the gears run dry as well? I still would think it would be good to have some lube on the straight cut gears too.

I'm just a wannabe tuner so please forgive my ignorance.

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Johnny Braaapp /

Awesome, yeah I'll be shooting for welded on then. Todd great picture, I can just flush up the flange with where the cylinder mates, then take my time with welding. A little bit at a time, allowing ample time to cool in between welding, until solid. Aluminum for me, is like butter I love working with Alu. Will be shooting for 18hp+, obviously with all other supporting parts.

Question, anyone know what the latest jammer clutch holds power wise?

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

todd amundson /

The tomar holeshots that we use in e50s are made for wet use. There’s other dry karting clutches that are identical for the most part. Someone here has that crazy tomar outside an e50 that’s obviously dry. That shits wicked.

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Thanks Todd! That makes sense.

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

I’d assume you’d just use sealed bearings.. then make a dust cover for the Main gear

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Johnny Braaapp /

Once tax refund hits, this is becoming a reality. Just going to go all out.

-Kickstart e50 case induction reed

-45mm race cylinder

-Straight cut gears

-16mm big end balanced crank

-C4 bearings

-Viton seals

-KTM style clutch

-HPI ignition

- TM24

Doubt it will make 22hp but will be a fun project to play around with. Concerns, or points of interest are:

-Crank walk: 22hp is alot to contain in that squirmy case, any ideas to keep crank seated? Thought about sanding/milling a few thou off the the case to tighten the tolerance? also, straight cut gears will undoubtedly help with this

-Exhuast: Will modify my Homoet 6p to work.

-Carb: is tm24 too large? (edited)

PuchMaxiDyno21.jpg

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Overpriced Parts /

“ -Crank walk: 22hp is alot to contain in that squirmy case, any ideas to keep crank seated? Thought about sanding/milling a few thou off the the case to tighten the tolerance? also, straight cut gears will undoubtedly help with this”

Not just crank walk but crank bearings will spin, I’ve glued the bearings in a high powered build with a few drops of bushing adhesive and used puch NOS bearings especially the snap ring one, it’s a shielded back design which is stronger plus Less prone to have a transmission side leak ,

You got to be careful with the adhesive though, use just a tiny bit and it could pretty much be a one shot deal,

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Cutting another snap ring groove helps keep the magneto side bearing from walking around as much. It is inevitable when you get over 12k. I usually drop a little green locktite on my crank bearings, getting the proper torque on the the case bolts is annoying with the flathead bolts. I like switching to socket caps and using locktite 518 to seal the cases.

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Jurrian Mulder /

To get the 22 hp out of the cylinder, you will need some high end parts. The toronda cylinder will soon be available with a fitting cnc head. Also the p6 exhaust won't work well with this cylinder. If you're lucky a fitting pipe will be for sale on their website too. I'm not sure if it will be though. My reed case is welded on there. Welded it tig, with all bearings in place and all bolts tightened. (To prevent warping). Other then a crack, which appeared after 2 year of dirt racing, it stayed airtight.

You will need a good crankshaft, there is a strong one at their webshop for sale.

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Johnny Braaapp /

> Jurrian Mulder Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> To get the 22 hp out of the cylinder, you will need some high end parts.

> The toronda cylinder will soon be available with a fitting cnc head.

> Also the p6 exhaust won't work well with this cylinder. If you're lucky

> a fitting pipe will be for sale on their website too. I'm not sure if it

> will be though. My reed case is welded on there. Welded it tig, with all

> bearings in place and all bolts tightened. (To prevent warping). Other

> then a crack, which appeared after 2 year of dirt racing, it stayed

> airtight.

>

> You will need a good crankshaft, there is a strong one at their webshop

> for sale.

Any pictures of your welded on reed? Thank you for the input. Yes I am going with their 16mm end crank also.

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Jurrian Mulder /

> Johnny Braaapp Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

>

> Any pictures of your welded on reed? Thank you for the input. Yes I am

> going with their 16mm end crank also.

First I made a reed block out of a blok of aluminium. also milled a big gap in the case. If you look closely at the first picture, you can see how far the case was milled out. almost 2cm of the radius around the crankshaft is the reed blok.

6067c7af-c59f-48f9-8824-ed2d5dd08aa5.jpg
847b6042-9293-4056-bc4c-74b7f58779d9.jpg
a7bed7ed-94ae-4c8a-9b56-fafb861be485.jpg

Re: Info Request: - Case Reed E50s

Johnny Braaapp /

Thank you for sharing, I know a lot of guys don't like sharing too much information on race spec motors. So, I appreciate it. I'll be handing my case halves to a mate of mine that runs a engine machine shop. I'll have him bore it and cut the snap ring groove.

« Go to Topics — end of thread

Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first:

Login or Create Account