Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

Has anyone had any luck wiring up a pietcard 3055 internal coil and a pietcard 2041? I can't figure out how to wire the blue/black wire and the black wire coming down from the handlebars after taking out the points and condenser. Thanks!

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

I also have the pietcard external ignition coil.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

I've discovered that people switch their old ignition coil with their old lighting coil when they add a Pietcard internal coil - I took my stator out and have the old wires and coils in front of me. Does anyone have a diagram for this set up (Pietcard internal coil, external coil, and CDI box with the old ignition coil replacing the old lighting coil?

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

I thought you needed the 2013 box for the za50. Also you lose your key way for timing. You need a light to time it. You should get spark no matter where it is placed. And then reset timing once you find out where to make your marks.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

> Jay Rivett Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I thought you needed the 2013 box for the za50.

Not sure why that would be, the 2041 will give you a curve, the 2013 won't (or at least not much of one). I don't see why you couldn't put a 2041 on a za50.

Attached is a wiring diagram for the V1 pietcard but the same concept applies here. Make sure you ground that CDI box very well. (edited)

image.jpg

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

Makes sense Dan. But you definitely still lose your key on your flywheel and have to reposition it to the new timing area.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

> Jay Rivett Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Makes sense Dan. But you definitely still lose your key on your flywheel

> and have to reposition it to the new timing area.

Truth. Maybe you get lucky and can manage to reposition your stator and get it dialed in, but for the most part, as you say, you're pulling your woodruff and timing manually.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

Much appreciated - that is the diagram I have been working with. I guess my main point of confusion is that there are only two wires coming off of the internal coil that both seem to plug into the CDI. With the original ignition coil, the blue/black wire grounds to the horn. How does the pietcard internal coil ground?

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

Overpriced Parts /

> Jay Rivett Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Makes sense Dan. But you definitely still lose your key on your flywheel

> and have to reposition it to the new timing area.

And then reengineer your lighting circuit with from the way the bike came because you lose the 10 w coil and the self regulating affect as well as losing the horn which operates from the ignition coil.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

To hell with the horn! What better way to learn wiring than ruin a good system? All jokes aside we inherited a bike that was missing the stock external coil and the points and condenser and we're trying to bring it back to life with very minimal knowledge of the electrical side

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

> Romas Parker Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Much appreciated - that is the diagram I have been working with. I guess

> my main point of confusion is that there are only two wires coming off

> of the internal coil that both seem to plug into the CDI. With the

> original ignition coil, the blue/black wire grounds to the horn. How

> does the pietcard internal coil ground?

It's grounded right to the stator plate when you bolt it on, no extra wires needed.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

This is what I was looking for! Thanks a lot I appreciate the help

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

Just make sure you have a good ground loop between the ring terminal, frame and engine.

You will want the white lettering up on a ZA50, on an e50 the letters face in.

You will have to time it manually with a timing light and micrometer

After all this it's still not a super reliable setup, you might be better off if you're new to Moped to just grab a good stock stator

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

> Graham Motzing Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Just make sure you have a good ground loop between the ring terminal,

> frame and engine.

>

> You will want the white lettering up on a ZA50, on an e50 the letters

> face in.

>

> You will have to time it manually with a timing light and micrometer

>

> After all this it's still not a super reliable setup, you might be

> better off if you're new to Moped to just grab a good stock stator

What is considered unreliable about these? Only asking because I installed a couple over the winter and hoping I don't have problems, or if I do, what they might be.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

They have a tendency to fry the box. Some people run them for years with no problems, some die after a few days. I switched over to a jog CDI box with the 3055 coil then finally ditched it all because I was having some unrelated issues and got frustrated.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

> Graham Motzing Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> They have a tendency to fry the box. Some people run them for years with

> no problems, some die after a few days. I switched over to a jog CDI

> box with the 3055 coil then finally ditched it all because I was having

> some unrelated issues and got frustrated.

That's why I have the 2013 box. Less prone to frying due to the lack of a curve.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

> Graham Motzing Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> They have a tendency to fry the box. Some people run them for years with

> no problems, some die after a few days. I switched over to a jog CDI

> box with the 3055 coil then finally ditched it all because I was having

> some unrelated issues and got frustrated.

I've heard of the frying of boxes, always chalked it up to just people not have a good ground or something. Guess I'll find out.

> Jay Rivett Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> That's why I have the 2013 box. Less prone to frying due to the lack of

> a curve.

I guess I can't comprehend how a box having a curve would be more prone to frying compared to one without.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

> Dan Pasanen Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I guess I can't comprehend how a box having a curve would be more prone

> to frying compared to one without.

Maybe because of more and/or different components within the box ?

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin /

Not to shit on it some more but I never understood the pietxard replacements

Buy points if you want to work

Go HPI if you want actual ignition upgrade

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

Maitland. The difference is that you can get the pietcard setup for like $60 but hpi is going to cost over $200

And yes the box with the curve has more pieces to fail for it to auto curve as the rpms rise.

But I totally agree about points being amazing. And to get a quality cdi setup if you want to go that route.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

fuck HPI, they fry too easy.

fuck points, too. who really wants to adjust point gap?

Pietcard stuff is tight. I've put A LOT of 2041 boxes on treats cdi's and a couple of the gumby coils them on V1s here and its been great.

I haven't really tried the gumby coils on e50s or za50s yet, besides like 8-9 years ago when i was trying to get a gumby coil to work on an e50 with the wrong flywheel.

ANYWAYS, skip all the bullshit and just buy a tomos cdi with a parmakit box. it has a curve, you can replace the ignition coil if it burns out for hella cheap and no stupid points to set or have arc on you or anything. it's a total win win.

https://www.treatland.tv/tomos-A3-A35-and-A55-complete-OEM-cdi-plus-many-f-p/tomos-cdi-rehab-performance.htm

get that. works great! cheaper than an HPI and will last longer too!

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin /

The reason I spend the $200 on the HPI can be described here: https://moneywise.com/a/boots-theory-of-socioeconomic-unfairness

Also, have fried an HPI before, but only once.

Also had an HPI magnet slip free from it's glue and go 180 degrees off and run my bike backwards and then eventually eat itself you can ask Jesse Stephenson he witnessed it

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

I have a garelli that I am putting my pietcard setup on. The points keep being a problem. I have bought 3 sets of points and none have been correct ones. Pietcard is really the only "bolt on" application that I can find for garelli.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

For real, the tomos ignition is the best.

Me and a EE buddy of mine took apart a fried 2013, they are made out of the worst trash parts, the main charge cap was 150v which isn't enough for most cdi systems, but that wasn't what fried, it was the timing cap which was even lower like 40v. They were some garbage capacitor that my buddy says nobody even really uses anymore.

If they work for you that's great, I don't see any reason not to buy a3202 box for 9$ instead.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

> 🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> The reason I spend the $200 on the HPI can be described here:

> https://moneywise.com/a/boots-theory-of-socioeconomic-unfairness

>

> Also, have fried an HPI before, but only once.

>

> Also had an HPI magnet slip free from it's glue and go 180 degrees off

> and run my bike backwards and then eventually eat itself you can ask

> Jesse Stephenson he witnessed it

Maybe I'm missing something but the "boots example" is kinda apples and oranges here. I am not buying a 3055 coil as an inferior product. I'm buying this because I'm pieceing the parts together, figuring it out myself, and making it work. I am also going to be spending my time in place of the $150 charge to pay HPI to do that. That's what I want. These coils aren't some magic tech pietcard came up with. Putting these weird coils in place of points is something that happened to a lot of yard equipment in the 80's 90's.

Now if I'm buying a crappy CDI kit that fails 50%+ of the time and I'm constantly replacing it, that's the "boots example". This is just people doing the work themselves and saving money.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin /

In my experience of seeing people's experiences, the pietxard fails way more often than HPI.

And nobody complains about a power dynamo either

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

Yeah I spent way more than $300 of labor fucking with peitcard, but this is a hobby and I'm having fun and learning so there is that.

I buy nice expensive boots, tools, etc. That I count on to do a job.

There is also the clone carb effect in mopeds where is you buy a cheap carb you won't put as much time into setting it up.... Cheap kit, cheap ignition... People slap them on, then they are bummed when they don't work and blame the ignition/carb/kit

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin /

Yeah if you're counting it as a learning experience sure, go ham.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

the a3202 boxes are kinda chill too... I really wanna try one on an a35 with the puch Treats CDI that uses a hall sensor, mainly cuz we have a lot of them hanging around here at the shop. Shit i might even try a yamaha jog box on there too, but that probably wont be for a long time.

call me lazy, but i just really hate having to pull the whole kickstart lever assembly off to remove the ignition cover.

Re: Pietcard Ignition on a ZA50

The trigger coil on all the treats cdi seems to be the weak link, after you silicone and rewire all the leads. The le partie replacement trigger works with a little grinding, but for my next truck I want to try running the parmakit box on the treat cdi with no trigger... Just hook it up

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