MOPED ARMY

I've discovered that people switch their old ignition coil with their old lighting coil when they add a Pietcard internal coil - I took my stator out and have the old wires and coils in front of me. Does anyone have a diagram for this set up (Pietcard internal coil, external coil, and CDI box with the old ignition coil replacing the old lighting coil?

Not sure why that would be, the 2041 will give you a curve, the 2013 won't (or at least not much of one). I don't see why you couldn't put a 2041 on a za50.

Attached is a wiring diagram for the V1 pietcard but the same concept applies here. Make sure you ground that CDI box very well. (edited)

Truth. Maybe you get lucky and can manage to reposition your stator and get it dialed in, but for the most part, as you say, you're pulling your woodruff and timing manually.

And then reengineer your lighting circuit with from the way the bike came because you lose the 10 w coil and the self regulating affect as well as losing the horn which operates from the ignition coil.

It's grounded right to the stator plate when you bolt it on, no extra wires needed.

Just make sure you have a good ground loop between the ring terminal, frame and engine.

You will want the white lettering up on a ZA50, on an e50 the letters face in.

You will have to time it manually with a timing light and micrometer

After all this it's still not a super reliable setup, you might be better off if you're new to Moped to just grab a good stock stator

They have a tendency to fry the box. Some people run them for years with no problems, some die after a few days. I switched over to a jog CDI box with the 3055 coil then finally ditched it all because I was having some unrelated issues and got frustrated.

I've heard of the frying of boxes, always chalked it up to just people not have a good ground or something. Guess I'll find out.

I guess I can't comprehend how a box having a curve would be more prone to frying compared to one without.

Not to shit on it some more but I never understood the pietxard replacements

Buy points if you want to work

Go HPI if you want actual ignition upgrade

fuck HPI, they fry too easy.

fuck points, too. who really wants to adjust point gap?

Pietcard stuff is tight. I've put A LOT of 2041 boxes on treats cdi's and a couple of the gumby coils them on V1s here and its been great.

I haven't really tried the gumby coils on e50s or za50s yet, besides like 8-9 years ago when i was trying to get a gumby coil to work on an e50 with the wrong flywheel.

ANYWAYS, skip all the bullshit and just buy a tomos cdi with a parmakit box. it has a curve, you can replace the ignition coil if it burns out for hella cheap and no stupid points to set or have arc on you or anything. it's a total win win.

https://www.treatland.tv/tomos-A3-A35-and-A55-complete-OEM-cdi-plus-many-f-p/tomos-cdi-rehab-performance.htm

get that. works great! cheaper than an HPI and will last longer too!

I have a garelli that I am putting my pietcard setup on. The points keep being a problem. I have bought 3 sets of points and none have been correct ones. Pietcard is really the only "bolt on" application that I can find for garelli.

Maybe I'm missing something but the "boots example" is kinda apples and oranges here. I am not buying a 3055 coil as an inferior product. I'm buying this because I'm pieceing the parts together, figuring it out myself, and making it work. I am also going to be spending my time in place of the $150 charge to pay HPI to do that. That's what I want. These coils aren't some magic tech pietcard came up with. Putting these weird coils in place of points is something that happened to a lot of yard equipment in the 80's 90's.

Now if I'm buying a crappy CDI kit that fails 50%+ of the time and I'm constantly replacing it, that's the "boots example". This is just people doing the work themselves and saving money.

Yeah I spent way more than $300 of labor fucking with peitcard, but this is a hobby and I'm having fun and learning so there is that.

I buy nice expensive boots, tools, etc. That I count on to do a job.

There is also the clone carb effect in mopeds where is you buy a cheap carb you won't put as much time into setting it up.... Cheap kit, cheap ignition... People slap them on, then they are bummed when they don't work and blame the ignition/carb/kit

the a3202 boxes are kinda chill too... I really wanna try one on an a35 with the puch Treats CDI that uses a hall sensor, mainly cuz we have a lot of them hanging around here at the shop. Shit i might even try a yamaha jog box on there too, but that probably wont be for a long time.

call me lazy, but i just really hate having to pull the whole kickstart lever assembly off to remove the ignition cover.