Difference between revisions of "Calculating port timing"

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And then fill in the desired timing and reverse-calculate it.
 
And then fill in the desired timing and reverse-calculate it.
 
==For Puch's==
 
==For Puch's==
Here's the easy way out for people with the Puch [[E50]] or [[ZA50]] engine.
+
Here's the tools out for people with the Puch [[E50]] or [[ZA50]] engine.
  
 
*You can use [[:Image:360degtape.pdf|this degree tape]] to help you figure out your port timing if you have a Puch or Tomos-sized flywheel.
 
*You can use [[:Image:360degtape.pdf|this degree tape]] to help you figure out your port timing if you have a Puch or Tomos-sized flywheel.
 
+
*You can also use this chart by measuring from the top of the cylinder, using milimeters:
  
 
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="8" width="45%" style="background-color: #F5F5F5; border: solid 2px #FFD700;"
 
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="8" width="45%" style="background-color: #F5F5F5; border: solid 2px #FFD700;"

Revision as of 15:32, 18 July 2011

This is a short article about calculating port timing. This is copied and pasted off the Technical board, and it's about advancing timing. It also includes a helpful tool.

Advancing the timing is pretty simple. You just need to calculate the current timing.

Calculations

D=(180-cos^-1((T^2+R^2-L^2)/(2*R*T)))*2

T=R+L+C-E

  • R is stroke divided by 2
  • L is the connecting rod length (90mm in a Puch, 85mm in a V1)
  • C is the distance of the crown of the piston to the top of the cylinder in TDC (Deckheight)
  • E is the distance between the port and the top edge of the cylinder

Everything is measured in millimeters.

And then fill in the desired timing and reverse-calculate it.

For Puch's

Here's the tools out for people with the Puch E50 or ZA50 engine.

  • You can use this degree tape to help you figure out your port timing if you have a Puch or Tomos-sized flywheel.
  • You can also use this chart by measuring from the top of the cylinder, using milimeters:
E50 port height (mm) in relation to timing (degrees)
Millimeters Degrees
21.5 193.7
22 191.1
22.5 188.5
23 185.9
23.5 183.2
24 180.6
24.5 177.9
25 175.2
25.5 172.5
26 169.8
26.5 167
27 164.3
27.5 161.5
Millimeters Degrees
28 158.6
28.5 155.8
32 134.7
32.5 131.4
33 128.2
33.5 124.8
34 121.4
34.5 117.9
35 114.3
35.5 110.5
36 106.7
36.5 102.8
(Courtesy of Puchforum.com)

Other Tools

There are also tools you can use, like Jaap's Puch Calculator. Quick translation of the program: (See also Foreign language moped dictionary and Dutch-English moped dictionary for your other translation needs.) There is also an applet here that will help you convert piston travel in mm to crank rotation in degrees.

  • Spoel-/uitlaattiming = Transfer-/Exhaust timing
Timing (In degrees)
Port height (in mm)
Deck height (in mm)
Stroke (43mm standard)
Con. rod length (90mm standard)
  • Inlaattiming = intake timing
Timing (in degrees)
Intake height (in mm)
Piston length (At the longest point, in mm)
Deck height (in mm)
Stroke (43mm standard)
Con. rod length (90mm standard)
  • Poortbreedte = Port width
True width (in mm)
Port map width (in mm)
Bore (in mm)
  • Snelheid, toeren = Speed, RPM
Speed (In KM/H)
RPM
Front sprocket (In number of teeth)
Rear sprocket (in number of teeth)
Internal gearing (Leave it the way it is for Puch)
Tire radius (in meters -- the length that the tire rolls for one revolution, if you catch my drift)
  • Informatie = Information
Place the radio button at the variable that's unknown. (The variable you want to calculate)

For Automatics

For an automatic, usable timings are:

  • Exhaust timing:
    • 138-150: Stock on most Mopeds to keep you under 30 MPH.
    • 151-161: Low RPM powerband timing.Good for low & mid rang torque power, up to 7K-8K RPM rang.
    • 162-168: Very usable timing. Good mid rang torque & power up to 8K-9K RPM range.
    • 169-175: Best all around power band timing. Good upper mid rang torque with hi RPM power up to a 9K-10K RPM range.
    • 176-182: Gives weak power under 5K, good power at 7K, and will rip from 8K up peaking from 9K up to a 10.2K-11.2K RPM range.
    • 183-187: Gives no power under 5.5K very weak upper mid ranger, some power at 7K, good at 8K, starts to rip from 9+K, pulls to the 11.5K-12.5 RPM range.
    • 188-198:Very limited use. Almost no torque with a narrow high high RPM power band at Pro use racing high revs.
  • For the intake timing, calculate the blowdown.
    • Blowdown of 25: Low blowdown. Wide power band with little peak. Rides well for everyday use.
    • Blowdown of 30: Pretty narrow power band. Low power at low revs, higher power at high revs. You need a well tuned clutch to be able to ride with a blowdown as high as this, or it will stall out.
    • Blowdown of 35+: Way too high for an automatic. This is only ridable on a well tuned variomatic or shifter engine.

As a rule of thumb, a blowdown higher then 28 isn't for everyday use on an automatic. Don't go higher than 28 if you don't know what you're doing ;)

Good luck and have fun.