Difference between revisions of "Honda PA50 II"

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=Honda PA50 II "Hobbit"=
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[[Image:Honda_PA50_II_1978.jpg|thumb|Honda PA50 II, 1978]]
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The '''Honda PA50 II''', or '''Hobbit''' is a 50cc, [[variator]]-driven moped made by [[Honda]].
  
==Manuals==
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==Further Reading==
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*[[Honda PA Body & Frame]]
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*[[Honda PA Carburetor / Fuel]]
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**[[Re-boring a PA50's stock Keihin]]
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*[[Honda PA Drivetrain]]
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**[[Front Pulley Specifications]]
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**[[Final Drive Disassembly]]
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**[[Starter Clutch Mod for Pull Starts]]
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*[[Honda PA Electrical]]
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*[[Honda PA Engine]]
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**[[Splitting the Case]]
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*[[Honda PA Exhaust]]
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*[[Honda PA Manuals]]
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*[[Honda PA Model Differences]]
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*[[Honda PA Model Info]]
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*[[Pulling PA50 bushings|Honda PA Motor Mount Bushings]]
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*[[Honda PA Parts]]
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*[[Honda PA Tools]]
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*[[Honda PA Troubleshooting]]
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*[[Honda PA Wheels]]
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*[[Honda PA50I or PA50M Performance (or lack thereof - and what you can (or can't) do about it)]]
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*[[Hobbit rebuild]]
  
===Service Manual===
 
  
This manual is for a 1983 [[Honda]] PA50 II, but it applied to all models from 1978-1983
 
  
[[Image:Honda_PA50_Service.pdf]]
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[[Category: Performance Tuning]]
 
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[[Category: Repair tutorials]]
===Parts Manual===
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[[Category:Honda]]
 
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[[Category: Honda Repair Tutorials]]
[[Image:Honda_PA50_Parts.pdf]]
 
 
 
[[Category: Moped Models]]
 
 
 
==Replacement Parts==
 
 
 
==="V" Belt===
 
 
 
Courtesy of [http://www.itslookingup.com/moped/pa50/tyskpa50.htm http://www.itslookingup.com/moped/pa50/tyskpa50.htm]
 
 
 
* The OEM belt length measured on the top side (outside diameter) is 41 inches (104.14 centimeters)
 
* The top and sides of the OEM belt (width) each measures 19/32 inch.
 
* The bottom width of the OEM belt measures 11/32 inch.
 
 
 
{| border=1
 
! Source !! Model !! Approx. Price !! Comments
 
|-
 
| Mitsuboshi (OEM) || 23100-148-7030 || $60.00 || Available via Honda dealers
 
|-
 
| Dayco || #17415 ''or''<br>13A055 || $12.00 || It is a 41.5" belt, slightly larger than stock
 
|}
 
 
 
===Spark Plugs===
 
 
 
Courtesy of [http://www.itslookingup.com/moped/pa50/tyskpa50.htm http://www.itslookingup.com/moped/pa50/tyskpa50.htm]
 
 
 
* PA50 1978 to 1981 (Gap .028")
 
**NGK BPR-6HS (OEM)
 
**Champion RL86C or L86C
 
**ND W20FPR
 
* PA50 1982 to 1983 (Gap .030")
 
**NGK BPR-6HS (OEM)
 
**Champion RL87YC or L87YC
 
**ND W20FPR
 
 
 
===Disassembly===
 
Working on a Honda Hobbit is a bit trickier than more conventional style mopeds, like a Puch or Sachs.  To get to any of the good stuff (the carb, intake manifold, air intake... and you will need to) can be difficult and intimidating at first.  But, with some practice you can have the thing apart in less than 4 minutes (yes, I've timed myself).  Here's what you need:
 
 
 
-17 mm wrench
 
 
 
-14 mm wrench
 
 
 
-Flathead screwdriver
 
 
 
-Phillps head screwdriver
 
 
 
-Needlenose pliers
 
 
 
-Vice grips/pliers.
 
 
 
*From memory, wrench sizes are 17 and 14 mm.  If not that exactly, they're close.  Open-ended or socket is fine.
 
 
 
Here's what you need to do:
 
-Take off your side covers.
 
If they're new and smooth, you can probably use your thumb.  If not, use a screwdriver of appropriate size, as not to strip the plastic screws out.
 
 
 
-Unscrew the shocks
 
Use the 14mm wrench to remove the 2 bolts attaching the bottom of the shocks to the bike.
 
 
 
-Disconnecting the thottle cable from the carb
 
Peer inside and you'll see where the throttle cable attaches to the carb.  Unscrew the phillips head screw and pull the cable out with the needlenose pliers.
 
 
 
-Unplugging fuel line
 
Shut your fuel off, and unplug your fuel line from your carburetor.
 
 
 
-Disconnecting wiring
 
This can be especially tricky.  All your wiring SHOULD be color coded, which is nice, in a nice little bulk of wires that come together on the left side of your bike.  All the wires snap in and out of each other, just pull them and the brass fittings will come right apart.  Remember where all of the wires connect to!  Most are pretty obvious.. red to red, green to green.  But there are a few blacks with different identification marks on them.  Be sure to distinguish between the black w/ a white stripe and black w/ a yellow stripe.
 
 
 
-Disconnecting decompression cable
 
Use the needlenose pliers or flathead screwdriver to pry the decompression cable from it's springy thing.
 
 
 
-Removing the main pin
 
Use the 17mm wrench to unbolt the main pin, and pull it out with vice grips or pliers.
 
 
 
-Disconnect rear brake
 
Unscrew the tightening nut on the rear brake, and take off the little metal cylinder and spring. 
 
 
 
NOW, the frame half of your bike will lift right off of your engine/rear wheel half.  In your little pile of nuts and bolts that you have been keeping in a dish is: 2 14 mm shock absorber bolts, 1 main pin w/ appropriate bolt, 1 brake tensioning nut, brake cylinder and spring.
 

Latest revision as of 19:28, 18 March 2019