Lighting - You Blew It - An Inquiry Into LEDs
Work in progress... Just setting up outline.
The goal of this guide is to outline the process of converting a stock moped electrical system to a LED system.
A guide to safe and bright lights.
- Soldering Iron
- A way to remove the magneto
Pieces you need that your moped does not have
- Regulator / Rectifier - Not just a regulator, we will be converting the AC output of the magneto to DC for the LEDs. These can range the cheap $10 ones to the Trail Tech (7004-RR150) or higher. We will be using the Trail Tech (7004-RR150) in this guide.
- Headlight Lens - If you have a sealed headlight you will need to change to a replaceable bulb type, usually fits a 1156 BA15s bulb. If you have a changeable bulb lucky you.
- LEDs - You can find ones that fit in your current moped fixtures. Headlight bubs are usually a 1156 BA15s bulb. Taillights are usually a single 1157 BA15d bulb or two 63 BA15s bulbs. Check yours before you order.
- Wire - Lets face it, that wire is 30+ years old, and needs to be replaced. Our wire harness will be rebuilt in this guide, but you could reuse what you have.
Things to think about before you begin
- Wiring in general - Now is the time if you want to update how your bikes switches and buttons work. Its also a good idea to simplify your wire loom. This guide will cover the process the making the simplest full featured harness. (Headlight, tail light, stop light, horn, light switch, kill switch)
- Is it worth it? - I would say every moped needs this treatment, but if your lights work now and are bright enough for night riding. Why change what works?
- Can I do this? - If you are unsure stop now and get help or take it to a shop.
Preparing the Stator aka Under the Knife
Requires complete removal of the stator and changing the lighting coil.
Building / Updating the Harness
The main thing to remember is you have to lift the lighting ground from the frame. The frame has two much noise on it with the ignition system being grounded on it. You could also lift the ignition ground and keep the lighting ground. But that would require the engine being isolated from the frame as well as the high coil.
The interesting thing about switches
This design requires N/C (normally closed) switches. That means the switches act as a short when pressed.
You can add a battery or a capacitor, you need a capacitive load. Blah blah blah.
Buying LEDs aka when 12v is actually 13.8v
13.8 is what most auto and moto run on, 12v is nominal. The LEDs need to be able to handle this.