Lighting - You Blew It - An Inquiry Into LEDs

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Work in progress... Just setting up outline.
The goal of this guide is to outline the process of converting a stock moped electrical system to a LED system.
A guide to safe and bright lights.

Tools Required

Pieces You Need that Your Moped Does Not Have

  • Regulator / Rectifier - Not just a regulator, we will be converting the AC output of the magneto to DC for the LEDs. These can range the cheap $10 ones to the Trail Tech (7004-RR150) or higher. We will be using the Trail Tech (7004-RR150) in this guide.
  • Headlight Lens - If you have a sealed headlight you will need to change to a replaceable bulb type, usually fits a 1156 BA15s bulb. If you have a changeable bulb lucky you.
  • LEDs - You can find ones that fit in your current moped fixtures. Headlight bubs are usually a 1156 BA15s bulb. Taillights are usually a single 1157 BA15d bulb or two 63 BA15s bulbs. Check yours before you order.
  • Wire - Lets face it, that wire is 30+ years old, and needs to be replaced. Our wire harness will be rebuilt in this guide, but you could reuse what you have.

Things to think about before you begin

  • Wiring in general - Now is the time if you want to update how your bikes switches and buttons work. Its also a good idea to simplify your wire loom. This guide will cover the process the making the simplest full featured harness. (Headlight, tail light, stop light, horn, light switch, kill switch)
  • Is it worth it? - I would say every moped needs this treatment, but if your lights work now and are bright enough for night riding. Why change what works?
  • Can I do this? - If you are unsure stop now and get help or take it to a shop.

Preparing the Stator aka Under the Knife

  1. Remove the Magneto, also know as a Flywheel with a Flywheel_puller.
  2. Disconnect all the wires from the wire harness.
  3. Remove screws from the Stator_plate. Usually two or three of them.
  4. Remove 6v Lighting Coil (if equipped) and replace with 12v Lighting_Coil. The lighting coil will have one end attached to the metal core and the other to a wire that runs out to the wire harness. This wire is usually yellow in color. The Exciter_Coil is wired to the point and condenser.
    Parts of the Stator
  5. Pull the coil wire off of the core and scrap some of the wire enamel off the coil wire. Cut a fresh piece of wire long enough to meet the wire harness, strip the end and feed it up next to the coil wire.
    Prepping for Solder
  6. Solder it. Tin the coil and the wire ends first then heat them together.
    Solder
  7. Cut the yellow wires to length, add some shrink tube. In this case we added female Quick_Disconnect terminals, you should add what ever you need to connect to your harness.
    Done!
  8. Test and make sure it is working correctly. Get out a Digital_Multi_Meter and set it to the buzz setting or smallest resistance setting. (if you are using resistance, 0 to 10 ohm is short aka buzz, infinity is open) Check for continuity from one yellow wire to the other, your meter should buzz. Then check for continuity between one yellow wire and the metal core of the coil, your meter should NOT buzz.

Building / Updating the Harness

The main thing to remember is you have to lift the lighting ground from the frame. I assume the frame has two much noise on it with the ignition system being grounded on it. Trail Tech also states "Do not connect to frame ground."

The Interesting Thing About Switches

This design requires N/C (normally closed) switches. That means the switches act as a short when pressed.

Batteries and Capacitors

You can add a battery or a capacitor, you need a capacitive load. Blah blah blah.

Buying LEDs aka when 12v is actually 13.8v

13.8 is what most auto and moto run on, 12v is nominal. The LEDs need to be able to handle this.