Racing transmission fluid for your Tomos
This is how you really transform your KITTED Tomos. Stock bikes might actually benefit more from the spring and slot mod. This is as important a modification as clutch flipping is to your ZA50-powered Puch. I really feel this is how they should have come from the factory. Ignore the hype about slotting clutch shoes for the end all. Ignore the hype about cutting clutch springs. All that stuff does is make your clutches fall apart sooner, WHEN KITTED. This is the reality. Be prepared for 700mL of awesome. The revolution will not be televised.
So lets say you have a tomos. You enjoy how fast the tomos is. But it's not fast enough.
Lets say it's fast when it finally gets onto the pipe, but it (1) doesn't hit the pipe in first gear and (2) shifts way too early so it takes forever to hit the pipe in 2nd gear.
Your tomos doesn't shift like a ZA50.
You can't get on the pipe in first gear.
Your 1-2 shift leaves you in superbogville, and E50s out-accelerate you.
You can get up a hill in first, but then you shift into second, and get stuck.
You get really irritated at all of it.
Tuned E50's completely smoke you.
Did I mention it's annoying?
You will need the following:
- 1 quart of Mercon Dexron compatible automatic transmission fluid
- 1 quart of 85w140 gear oil
- 1 mixing container
- 1 measuring cup capable of holding 700mL of mixture
Mix 350 mL of the ATF with 350mL of the gear oil. Pour 700mL of that into your transmission.
The key is to put it back into the gear oil container. Then just barely cut the tip of the gear oil container nipple off. You can then put the nipple into the fill hole of the Tomos. No more insanely hard funnel situations! You can now fill the Tomos transmission in about 10 seconds.
Realize here that you are going to be overfilling the Tomos transmission significantly. As a result you won't be able to use the fill level screw when doing a performance fluid fill. Just leave it closed, and ignore it exists for the rest of the time you own your Tomos.
The bike should engage later in RPM, and also take a much higher RPM to shift. You don't have to let off to shift. In fact, according to some Dutch racers, it is harder on the clutches when you let off when shifting, and in fact you will get the best clutch life by staying on it completely. This is opposite to the Puch ZA50 which enjoys lifting off to shift.
There really shouldn't be any troubleshooting. The bike should behave the way it should have from the factory. If you have issues with shifting, more than likely you will have to re-line your clutch pads or replace your clutch shoes completely.